The fast-paced sights and sounds of the fashion runway have come to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts
this spring with Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style, a multifaceted exhibition that opened May 6, and continues through August 27, 2017. Drawn from the unparalleled collection of the Paris-based Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent and other private collections, this breathtaking exhibition offers an intimate and comprehensive look at the lifetime achievement of Saint Laurent, one of historys most radical and influential fashion designers.
Featuring 100 examples of haute couture and ready-to-wear garmentssome never shown publicly beforethis exhibition reveals Saint Laurents artistic genius, as well as his working process, and the sources of his design inspiration. VMFA is the only East Coast venue for the exhibition, which has been organized by the Seattle Art Museum in partnership with the Paris-based Fondation.
In addition to haute couture ensembles and ready-to-wear clothing, Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style includes costume jewelry and other accessories, photographs, drawings, films, and video from the Fondations vast archive. The exhibition traces the trajectory of Saint Laurents style as it developed throughout the course of his career, beginning in 1953 with the Paper Doll Couture House that he created as a teenager, which is being shown for the first time in the United States. Ensembles early in the exhibition focus on his formative years at the House of Dior, including an example of a short evening dress from his successful Trapeze collection, which marked his debut as a fashion designer when it was shown in Paris in 1958. The exhibition continues with his groundbreaking designs of the 1960s, which revolutionized the fashion industry. During this decade, Saint Laurent liberated modern women from the constraints of strict gender codes by creating clothingsuch as the safari jacket, the pantsuit, and the tuxedowhich he borrowed from the male wardrobe. Visitors also will see how Saint Laurent was inspired by the work of other artists, including Piet Mondrian and Tom Wesselmann, as well as African art and ancient Greek vase painting.
Another key element of this presentation is the inclusion of production documents that offer a rare behind-the-scenes glimpse into the creative workings of the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house and the private life of the couturier. Collection boards containing sketches and color swatches from 1962 to 2002 document every Saint Laurent haute couture show, while a room of toilesthe forms ateliers use to create as first draft of couture garmentsoffers a unique look into the various stages of production and fitting before the final garment was realized. The exhibition concludes in an explosion of color with a procession of eveningwear, including garments in black silk, blue-green chiffon, and white damask, which date from the early 1970s to 2002, when Saint Laurent officially retired with his final runway collection.
History has already cemented Yves Saint Laurents reputation as one of the greatest couturiers of the 20th century, said Alex Nyerges, VMFA Director. This remarkable exhibition presents Saint Laurents exquisite designs in an immersive environment that allows visitors to see firsthand the development of Saint Laurents style, as well as his impact on fashion, film, and popular culture.
Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style is curated by Florence Müller, the Denver Art Museums Avenir Foundation Curator of Textile Art and Curator of Fashion, in collaboration with Chiyo Ishikawa, Seattle Art Museums Deputy Director of Art and Curator of European Painting and Sculpture. Barry Shifman, VMFAs Sydney and Frances Lewis Family Curator of Decorative Arts, 1890 to the present, is the organizing curator for VMFA.
As a fashion designer, Saint Laurent was always pushing boundaries, said Dr. Michael R. Taylor, VMFAs Chief Curator and Deputy Director for Art and Education. During his 40 years of designing, Saint Laurent transformed the female wardrobe by borrowing the tuxedo, the safari jacket, and the pantsuit from mens clothing. By turning traditional menswear into haute couture, Saint Laurent empowered women with this new form of clothing and, in doing so, revolutionized the fashion world. This exhibition demonstrates the impact of Saint Laurents work on the history of fashion and the present-day relevance of his style.