The First Art Newspaper on the Net   Established in 1996 United States Friday, September 20, 2019


Eyes on the ties: From power symbol to fashion statement at the Swiss National Museum
A visitor faces a wall showing ties and bow ties by US artist Andy Warhol from the Andy Warhol Museum of Pittsburgh during the exhibition "The Tie. men fashion power" on October 8, 2014 at the Swiss National Museum in Zurich. From a symbol of power to a fashion statement, ties in all their guises are on show at a new exhibition dedicated to the neckwear at the Swiss National Museum. AFP PHOTO / FABRICE COFFRINI.

By: Nathalie Olof-Ors


ZURICH (AFP).- From a symbol of power to a fashion statement, ties in all their guises are on show at a new exhibition dedicated to the neckwear at the Swiss National Museum.

They speak volumes about their wearer, whether sported by British regimental veterans and university alumni, or US presidential hopefuls -- red for Republicans, blue for Democrats.

The subtle tie-codes at various points in history are set out step by step for visitors to the Zurich-based museum.

"The concept of the exhibition is to show the different facets and contexts of the necktie and also that it had different meanings depending on the era," co-curator Joya Indermuehle told AFP.

Ties of various kinds were long worn as a symbol of social and political status.

They emerged in the 17th century when French aristocrats adopted the cravat, originally a simple scarf worn by soldiers from Croatia.

The name cravat was a nod to "Hrvat", to the Croatian word for a Croat.

Among the treasures on display in Zurich is a long lace cravat worn by Christian VII, king of Denmark and Norway, at his coronation in 1767.

From more recent history is a tie offered to US president Jimmy Carter in 1979 by American artist Jeffrey Vallance.

Vallance's "Cultural Ties" project involved sending neckties to a host of heads of state and asked them to give him one in return.

Alongside the somewhat psychedelic tie is a letter Vallance received from the White House.

"Although we can appreciate your interest, unfortunately, the President receives so many requests for souvenirs and other momentos that it is not possible for him to comply with all of them. He believes it would be unfair to make an exception in this case when he has not do so for others. I hope you will understand," it says.

Beyond monarchs and politicians, the exhibition also spotlights ties in the art world, including those of Port Art icon Andy Warhol, or from the punk movement.

Emancipation symbol for women
Others include one sported by German actress Marlene Dietrich, in a sign of the rebellious androgeny of the post-World War I Berlin cabaret scene.

A section of the exhibition is dedicated to women's ties.

"We wanted to show that there were contexts probably not so much known, like for example the women neckties in the 17th century," said Indermuehle.

While aristocratic women had adopted neckwear, ties became a mark of the female challenge to male dominance from the 19th century onwards.

"It became a statement later on when George Sand or Colette started to use it as a symbol of emancipation," said Indermuehle.

Despite that, neckties have remained a largely male preserve.

Zurich is a fitting location for the exhibition, given that quality cloth for ties fuelled the prosperity of a city now best-known for its banks.

Rival manufacturing hubs included Como in Italy and Krefeld in Germany.

In tribute to the Zurich manufacturers of the past, the exhibition includes a section of cloth production, with a huge image of a design used on the weavers' "Jacquard" looms.

Britain was Zurich's main export market in the 19th century, joined by the United States and Japan in the 20th century.

The sector was vulnerable to shifting economic winds, noted historian Alexis Schwarzenbach, who is researching the Zurich silk industry.

"The devaluation of the dollar in the 1970s practically wiped out the American market," he said.

Swiss exporters also faced rising competition from Asian producers, just as male dress codes became more relaxed, and the sector slowly withered.

With ties no longer deemed essential in many circles, they have become a way to personalise men's style.

"Tie-wearing has lost its obligatory side and returned via fashion," said Isabelle Lartigue, head of menswear at Parisian trend-spotting company Peclers.

On the catwalks, ties are this year facing tough competition from flowing scarfs, though retro-style knitted ties with square tips are back in, she said.

In Italian fashion, the current trend is to deploy ties in "almost theatrical style", said Lartigue, while American designers are opting for ties that match the colour of the shirts.

The exhibition runs until January 18.

© 1994-2014 Agence France-Presse






Today's News

October 20, 2014

Eyes on the ties: From power symbol to fashion statement at the Swiss National Museum

'Forbidden City: Imperial Treasures from the Palace Museum, Beijing' opens in Richmond

In Mexico's National Museum of Anthropology, codex exhibit rethinks Moctezuma's death

Palazzo Reale in Milan celebrates Van Gogh's relationship with nature and the earth

Exhibition of sculptures, paintings, and films by Julian Opie opens at Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow

No second coming for American artist Paul McCarthy's deflated Paris 'sex toy' sculpture

First retrospective of Archibald Motley to travel to the West Coast opens at LACMA

French street artist JR revisits ghosts of Ellis Island hospital with a moving exhibition

Iconic 'Easy Rider' chopper sells for $1.35 million at Profiles in History's auction rooms

Jock Macdonald's first retrospective in three decades opens at the Vancouver Art Gallery

The New York Ceramics Fair adds glass to its title; Opens January 21-25, 2015

'Fatal Consequences: The Chapman Brothers & Goya's Disasters of War' at the Fitzwilliam Museum

Photographer Andre Plessel's debut Manhattan art exhibit opens at The Lilac Gallery

Galerie Eric Mouchet opens with exhibition of photographs by Matthieu Gafsou

MEX Collects: The Mexican Museum showcases recent gifts and acquisitions

A curated selection of light installations by seven contemporary artsists opens at Cuadro Gallery

German astronaut's Omega Speedmaster wristwatch bodly goes under the hammer

1870 Carson City Double Eagle brings $188,000 to lead $11.1+ million Heritage New York US Coins Auction

Noble Spaniard Ricardo Soriano's 1903 Panhard et Levassor staris in Bonhams auction

The 'first couple of comics,' Joe and Nadia will head Heritage's East Coast comics operation

Delaware Art Museum explores the work of children's book illustrator Brian Selznick

Recent paintings and works on paper by David Scher on view at Pierogi

First UK solo exhibition of Norwegian artist Kenneth Alme opens at Rod Barton

Nick Doyle's first solo exhibition of work at INVISIBLE-EXPORTS opens in New York

Most Popular Last Seven Days



1.- Holocaust 'masterpiece' causes uproar at Venice film festival

2.- To be unveiled at Sotheby's: One of the greatest collections of Orientalist paintings ever assembled

3.- Bender Gallery features paintings by up and coming Chicago artist Michael Hedges

4.- Lévy Gorvy exhibits new and historic works by French master in his centenary year

5.- Artificial Intelligence as good as Mahler? Austrian orchestra performs symphony with twist

6.- Fascinating new exhibition explores enduring artistic bond between Scotland and Italy

7.- Exhibition explores the process of Japanese-style woodblock production

8.- Robert Frank, photographer of America's underbelly, dead at 94

9.- The truth behind the legend of patriot Paul Revere revealed in a new exhibition at New-York Historical Society

10.- Hitler bust found in cellar of French Senate



Museums, Exhibits, Artists, Milestones, Digital Art, Architecture, Photography,
Photographers, Special Photos, Special Reports, Featured Stories, Auctions, Art Fairs,
Anecdotes, Art Quiz, Education, Mythology, 3D Images, Last Week, .

 



Founder:
Ignacio Villarreal
(1941 - 2019)
Editor & Publisher: Jose Villarreal
Art Director: Juan José Sepúlveda Ramírez

Royalville Communications, Inc
produces:

ignaciovillarreal.org avemariasound.org juncodelavega.com facundocabral-elfinal.org
Founder's Site. The most varied versions
of this beautiful prayer.
Hommage
to a Mexican poet.
Hommage
       

The First Art Newspaper on the Net. The Best Versions Of Ave Maria Song Junco de la Vega Site Ignacio Villarreal Site
Tell a Friend
Dear User, please complete the form below in order to recommend the Artdaily newsletter to someone you know.
Please complete all fields marked *.
Sending Mail
Sending Successful