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Sale of personal collection of one of the most important jewellers of the 20th century realizes $3,459,307
Suzanne Belperron © Archives Olivier Baroin.

GENEVA.- All 60 Jewels from the personal collection of Suzanne Belperron (1900‐1983) sold today at Sotheby’s Geneva for the outstanding total of CHF 3,224,950 ($3,459,307), more than tripling the pre‐sale expectation of CHF 902,000‐1,365,000. The sale – the most significant collection of jewels by Suzanne Belperron ever presented at auction ‐ was a “white glove sale”, with 100% sold by lot and value. Demand for seminal pieces from Suzanne Belperron’s oeuvre was intense with international bidding driving prices well above estimates.

Speaking after the sale, David Bennett, Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Department in Europe and the Middle East and Co‐Chairman of Sotheby’s Switzerland, commented: “It has been a great pleasure to bring to sale the personal collection of Suzanne Belperron, who is in my view the most talented and influential female jeweller of the 20th century. This collection included some of Suzanne Belperron’s most celebrated designs and very intimate items which illustrated her unique style and creative virtuosity. We hope that the success of today’s sale will highlight the immense talent of this great artist and her unique contribution to jewellery”.

The top lots from this morning’s auction were two iconic designs by Suzanne Belperron, featuring her hallmark combination of diamond and rock crystal. A carved rock crystal ring inset with a large navette diamond (lot 60) sold for CHF 464,500 ($498,255), more than ten times the pre‐sale low estimate of CHF 45,000‐72,000 ($50,500‐80,500). Another celebrated design by Belperron ‐ an iconic brooch in similar materials and design of descending scrolls (lot 59) – achieved CHF 302,500 ($324,483), nearly seven times the pre‐sale expectation of CHF 45,000‐72,000 ($50,500‐80,500).

Suzanne Belperron was very fond of pearls, which she used in some of her finest pieces. Today international collectors locked horns for sublime works in natural pearls. In circa 1935, she designed a natural pearl and diamond brooch (lot 33) which realised CHF 278,500 ($298,739), again a price well exceeding the estimate of CHF 45,000‐72,000 ($ 50,500‐80,500). Designed in the same year, a natural pearl and diamond bracelet (lot 51) fetched CHF 242,500 ($260,122), quadrupling the pre‐sale estimate of CHF 55,000‐80,000 ($61,500‐89,500).

Strong prices were also achieved for two rings in natural pearls. A natural pearl and diamond ring, circa 1945 (lot 32) made CHF 146,500 ($157,146) (est. CHF 36,000‐55,000/ $40,200‐61,500). Reflecting Belperron’s unique ability to transpose her designs from bracelets to rings, a gem‐set and diamond ring featuring multi‐coloured pearls (lot 50) realised CHF 70,900 ($76,052) against an estimate of CHF 27,000‐36,000/ $30,200‐40,200.

Bidders also vied for superb examples of Belperronfs gFleurh brooches, including a diamond brooch of stylised floral design (lot 44) which was sold for CHF 146,500 ($157,146) (est. CHF 45,000]72,000/ $50,500]80,500) and another Fleur brooch in diamonds and sapphires (lot 49) that went for CHF 92,500 ($99,222) (est. CHF 45,000] 72,000/ $50,500]80,500).

The timeless appeal of Belperronfs unique aesthetic was represented by a diamond bangle dating from circa 1955 (lot 57) which reached CHF 122,500 ($131,402) (est. CHF 36,000]55,000/ $40,200]61,500) and a sapphire and diamond ring of double corps design, circa 1945 (lot 58) which achieved a price of CHF 74,500 ($79,914) (est. CHF 23,000]32,000/$25,700]35,800).

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