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Stellar line up of jewels and gemstones feature in Bonhams New York first Fine Jewelry Sale of 2018
A Ruby and Diamond Ring by Mermod & Jaccard. Estimate: $80,000-120,000. Photo: Bonhams.

NEW YORK, NY.- Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires, Colombian emeralds, an impressive selection of magnificent diamonds together with a large collection of David Webb jewelry will be offered by Bonhams New York in its first jewelry auction of 2018.

Leading the 17 April sale is A Diamond Solitaire Ring estimated at $500,000 - 700,000. The round brilliant-cut diamond weighs 10.01 carats and is F color, VVS2 clarity and is from a private collection in the US.

The sale, which consists of 133 lots, will also include a selection of impressive colored stones including the king of gems, rubies. Highlights include:

• An Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Bracelet by Cartier, circa 1935, estimated at $80,000 - 120,000. Art Deco jewelry by Cartier continues to be highly sought after due to its exceptional craftsmanship, impressive design and rarity. This bracelet follows the bold color schemes of many pieces of Art Deco jewelry, contrasting rubies with white diamonds. It features seven rows of ruby beads, interspersed by baguette-cut diamond bars, flanked by old European-cut diamonds and is accompanied by an AGL report stating the rubies are Burmese (Myanmar) origin with no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.

• A Ruby and Diamond Necklace by Bulgari estimated at $200,000 - 300,000. Wearable for both day and night, the elegantly designed necklace features a total of 50 graduated oval-shaped rubies, the largest weighing approximately 2.15 carats, alternating with graduated round brilliant-cut diamonds. The rubies are Burmese (Myanmar) origin.

• A Ruby and Diamond Ring by Mermod & Jaccard estimated at $80,000 - 120,000. Timeless and elegant in style, this classic three-stone ring is set with an antique cushion-shaped ruby, weighing 3.24 carats, flanked by old European-cut diamonds, weighing 1.23 and 1.12 carats.

Caroline Morrissey, Senior Jewelry Specialist, Bonhams New York, says: “Rubies are far rarer than colorless diamonds, a fact that has been recognised in the world-record breaking prices they set at auction. Given the international appetite for specimen rubies together with a greater appreciation of this gemstone, we are anticipating keen interest in these pieces during our previews in New York, LA, Geneva and Hong Kong.”

Sapphires are continuing to attract buyers from all over the world as a result of a renewed appreciation of good quality sapphires from Kashmir, Sri Lanka and Burma. In its April sale, Bonhams has a number of excellent specimen gemstones from each of these areas. These include:

• A Sapphire and Diamond Ring estimated at $80,000-120,000 (pictured right). Gracing the front cover of the catalog, the 9.85 carats emerald-cut sapphire is of Kashmir origin – the area most highly prized for gem quality sapphires - and has no indication of heat or clarity enhancement. The ring was previously in the collection of an aristocratic French lady and this is the first time it has come to auction

• A Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Necklace estimated at $280,000 - 320,000. The cushion-shaped sapphire, weighing 40.07 carats, is of Ceylon (Sri Lanka) origin and has no indications of heat or clarity enhancement. Sri Lanka is also known as Island of Gems with sapphires unearthed from the lush plains near Ratnapura.

• A Diamond and Sapphire Bracelet by Bulgari estimated at $40,000-60,000 (pictured above). The bracelet is centrally set with a line of oval-shaped sapphires of Burmese (Myanmar) origin, framed by a cluster of marquise and round brilliant-cut diamonds. Burma has produced some of the world's finest blue sapphires mined in the Mogok area. The sapphires in the bracelet are accompanied by a report confirming that there are no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.

Hot on the heels of the sapphire and ruby lots, Bonhams will also be auctioning a wonderful selection of emeralds originating from Colombia. This includes An Emerald and Diamond Ring estimated at $110,000-150,000. The rectangular-shaped emerald-cut emerald, weighing 3.74 carats, has no indications of clarity enhancement.

Collection of David Webb jewelry to hit the auction block
Sixteen pieces of jewelry by American designer David Webb are set to go under the hammer at the April sale. Most of the pieces were purchased directly from David Webb and were collected over a period of 20 years. It is the first time that they have come to auction.

The jeweler was known for his design, craftsmanship, and creativity and had an enviable following including the Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Jacqueline Kennedy.

Webb was renowned for his big, bold designs and his unabashed use of color. Not afraid to take risks, he incorporated materials like exotic shells, carved rock crystal quartz, enamel and coral and made use of everything from geometric forms to naturalistic designs. The collection Bonhams will be offering includes A Diamond, Emerald, Ruby and Enamel Double Fox Head Bangle Bracelet estimated at $20,000-30,000. This is a perfect example of Webb’s penchant for animals
 with delicate enamelwork complemented by diamonds, emeralds, and rubies.

Other highlights in the collection include:

• A Coral, Diamond, Sapphire, Emerald, Platinum Bangle Bracelet estimated at $25,000-35,000

• An Amethyst, Coral, Emerald, Rock Crystal Quartz, Diamond and Enamel Pendant Necklace estimated at $30,000-50,000

Natural pearls
Natural pearls have seen a surge in value over the last decade and continue to be in demand according to Bonhams. Data from Art Market Research report a 286.1 percent increase in natural pearls over the last 10 years and two out of Bonhams top 10 lots sold at auction in 2017 were natural pearls.

In this coming auction, A Pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Earrings by Harry Winston will be offered for sale with a pre-sale estimate of $200,000-300,000. Composed of single drop pearls, measuring 18.0 x 13.1mm and 17.2 x 13.2mm, to round brilliant-cut diamond surmounts, they are expected to attract a lot of interest in the pre-sale previews.

Signed jewelry from the world’s most renowned houses offered at Bonhams
A fabulous selection of signed jewelry from Bulgari, Verdura, Tiffany & Co, René Boivin, Buccellati, Oscar Heyman and Ilias Lalaounis will be presented for sale at Bonhams New York. Distinguished by their designs and exceptional craftsmanship, highlights include:

• A Platinum, 18k Gold and Diamond “Danseuse” Pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1950, estimated at $10,000-15,000. Designed as a ballerina, her head and tutu are set with single and rose-cut diamonds.

• An Opal and Diamond Pendant Necklace by Andrew Grima, dated 1972. The “flame” pendant features an oval-shaped cabochon red opal, weighing approximately 82.30 carats, within a radiating surround of textured gold, suspending from a textured gold collar. Estimated at $20,000 - 30,000 it is accompanied by an original drawing signed by the designer.

• An Art Deco Diamond Clip Brooch by René Boivin, dated circa 1933, estimated at $30,000 - 50,000. Boivin jewels are easily recognizable for their bold lines and sculptural design. Pieces produced between 1930 and 1940 are highly sought after and this platinum and diamond dress clip from circa 1933 captures the essence of this period’s aesthetic.

Striking pieces from the Art Deco period set to capture collectors’ interest
The auction will feature two pieces of jewelry that capture the glamor and style of Hollywood in its heyday. The first, A Platinum and Diamond Bangle Bracelet of scroll design, adorned with round brilliant-cut diamonds, has a pre-sale estimate of $50,000 - 70,000.

Caroline Morrissey says: “This spectacular cuff is an exemplary demonstration of Joaillerie Blanche, a style born in 1929 that reached its heights in the late 1930s and was frequently worn by many of Hollywood’s greatest starlets. Although the cuff is unmarked, not unusual for the interwar period in which it was made, the importance of the piece itself suggests it was more than likely a unique piece or special order.”

The second lot, An Art Deco Diamond Charm Bracelet, circa 1925, is estimated at $12,000-18,000. The single-cut diamond line bracelet, suspending 19 charms, is pavé-set with similarly cut diamonds, and one charm is accented with calibré-cut rubies. It features charms for every year – starting from 1922 and ending in 1940. Caroline Morrissey adds: “Usually you find charm bracelets that are thematic or representative of an event or a passion, so this piece is a rare find as each charm displays the year in numerals in a slightly different font in a quintessential Art Deco style. In today’s market, having a piece of jewelry that tells such a story is a rarity.”

Details and full information on all 133 lots featured in the sale can be found here.

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March 26, 2018

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Stellar line up of jewels and gemstones feature in Bonhams New York first Fine Jewelry Sale of 2018

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