Panerai is a luxury Italian watch brand that is favored by the most discerning watch enthusiasts worldwide. Its watches have been referred to as art in motion and its history—dating back to the 1860s—is as hard-wearing as its timeless pieces.
The Panerai watches accompanied Italian Navy divers during their secret underwater missions in World War II. From the beginning to this day, it is designed as a deep-diving tool watch, where year after year, followers are surprised with their latest innovations.
Forget James Bond, Panerai watches are worn by the likes of Sylvester Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenneger and in this article, we are discussing everything you need to know about this brand and what makes it worth the investment.
The History Of The Brand & Its Early Military Ties
Panerai started as a small watch shop in Florence, which doubled as a watchmaking school, a repair shop, and a sales showroom.
In 1930, Panerai partnered with Rolex, which already had the Oyster—a water-resistant case the brand introduced in 1926—to work on a dive watch for the Royal Italian Navy. The result was the first official Radiomir watch, which sports the brand’s famed luminosity and Rolex’s waterproof movement.
The model used a patented radium-based powder to illuminate the dials. Its intense visibility underwater surpassed any other watch offering on the market in terms of luminosity. For most of the early 1900s, the brand continued to provide marine watches for the Italian Navy, the first ones of which are larger in size and designed with luminescent numerals and indexes—all hallmarks of the Radiomir.
It wasn’t until 1938 when the company released the new Radiomir that we recognize today. It sports the brand’s famous sandwich dial, with overlapping plates that make the luminescent radium more readable, and four main numerals—12, 3, 6, and 9—and stick indexes.
With a rich history, an established reputation, and commitment to functionality and technical advancements, Panerai has earned a name for its uniquely-shaped watches and respectable timepieces that can make you feel special.
Besides the Radiomir, the company has also deeply rooted its innovations in its other core model: the Luminor. Here, we take a view of some other iconic watch models from the company, featuring the brand’s signature aesthetic.
The Most Iconic Panerai Watches
1. Luminor
Building upon its strong foundation of luminescent watches, the company released the Luminor in 1949. It features a luminous tritium-based material, which would eventually replace the radium-based material in all its Radiomir models. It boasts a few refinements and updates from its predecessor, Radiomir—wider and flatter bezel, crown-protecting bridge, and water-resistant features. Nevertheless, it preserves the cushion-shaped case of the Radiomir.
2. Luminor Marina
In 1997, Panerai was bought out by the Richemont Group, and the first collection released after was the Luminor Marina. It pays tribute to the original Luminor model, with a few updates to appeal to modern tastes. The 47mm model—which was larger than the 44mm of the 1993 version—features a slightly domed crystal for a more elegant silhouette. It also has a small seconds sundial at 9 o’clock, further distinguishing it from its predecessor.
3. Luminor Submersible
The Luminor Submersible is a casual diving watch model. It features the signature Panerai clean black dial, but with a unidirectional rotating bezel. However, what distinctively separates the model from other watches is the teeth around the bezel’s circumference, which was added to make it easier to spin the bezel. It is perfect for sports enthusiasts who prefer an understated diving watch, allowing them to wear it on different occasions.
While Panerai’s history continues to influence the aesthetics of its modern lineup, the brand has become a different animal altogether under Richemont. Its military-contracted past has transitioned to appeal to the modern, luxury market: the watches now use smaller, in-house movements.
A Panerai For You
Less is more and it is what gives this brand a strong identity. Its simple dial and robust, rugged, military character can be seen from across the room, which makes a classic Panerai stand out from far away.
But, besides its long history of watchmaking, what makes Panerai watches so interesting? The company offers a wide range of straps in different colors and materials including NATO, leather, rubber, or even textile straps to make the watch truly your own. It has just the right selection of designs and combinations to suit every mood and occasion.
What’s even better is that a few select models are offered with straps that can be replaced with ease and without the use of any tools. All you have to do is apply a little pressure on the back, close to the case attachment, and change the straps.
What do you like most about Panerai watches? Which model is your favorite? Let us know by leaving a comment below.
