NOTTINGHAM .- New Art Exchange, Nottingham, present Nigerian photographer J.D. Okhai Ojeikere’s prolific collection of images of ornate hairstyles and headdresses. The elaborately sculpted hair of Nigerian women is captured in meticulous detail through beautifully composed black and white photographs. The series simultaneously celebrates hairstyling as a monumental yet ephemeral art form and represents an extensive visual archive reflecting Nigerian cultural traditions.
Widely regarded as one of the greatest African photographers of the twentieth century, Ojeikere earned international acclaim through his Hairstyle series. This personal project began in 1968 and grew to encompass 1,000 photographs taken over 40 years, only reaching its conclusion following the artist’s death earlier this year. The Hayward Touring exhibition from Southbank Centre, curated by Gillian Fox, is the first UK display of the renowned artist’s work. Fox explains: It is an incredible opportunity for Hayward Touring to exhibit the work of Nigeria's most beloved photographer and we are delighted to be working with New Art Exchange as our first tour venue. All of the works in the show were painstakingly reprinted from the original negatives, and the richness and physicality of these forms a direct connection to the very moment of their capture. Ojeikere’s original intent may have been a social document, but what in fact was produced was an extended love letter to his country and its culture.
To Ojeikere, hairstyles celebrate uniqueness and reflect the diversity of cultural traditions within Nigeria. The ever-evolving designs symbolise key life events such as weddings or birthdays, and often denote social status – with unique family hairstyles being passed down through generations. Preserving the rich heritage, Ojeikere labelled each photograph with the hairstyle’s place of origin, meaning, name and its history. This archival approach relates to the artist’s photojournalism background, setting the Hairstyle series against the backdrop of immense social and cultural change in post-colonial Nigeria.
Melanie Kidd, Director of Programmes at New Art Exchange explains the importance of displaying this celebrated series at the Nottingham-based gallery.
We are delighted to be exhibiting a hugely influential figure in African photography; an accomplished artist who devoted his life to meaningfully documenting his homeland. Ojeikere’s Hairstyle series truly celebrates diverse perspectives in art, exploring culturally significant traditions and the rich history of Nigeria through aesthetically beautiful images. We are excited to share these images with new audiences and stimulate new ideas and conversations around the series.
Alongside Ojeikere’s Hairstyles collection, New Art Exchange will present two new research based commissions by local artists. Through spending time in and around the numerous barbershops, salons and beauty stores of the Hyson Green region of Nottingham, the artists will be developing work in response to these spaces and the people they meet. Outcomes from these research based commissions will feature at New Art Exchange in different forms over the course of the Ojeikere exhibition.
Ben Harriott’s photography collection will feature inside NAE’s pop up hair salon space and will open alongside Ojeikere’s installation on 27 September. Harriott is driven to reveal and celebrate the cultural richness of minority communities in Britain. He seeks to create a platform for their documentation and representation. After spending time in West-Indian barbershops of Nottingham, Harriott has looked beyond the service of ‘cutting hair’ to explore the alternative functions of the all- male, West Indian barbershop. His collection reveals the complexity of these environments and explores the role they play in shaping the lives of those that frequent them.
Also utilising NAE’s pop-up hair salon space, performance artist Rachael Young and self-taught hairdresser Richard Houguez will set up a hairstyling laboratory on 8, 9, 15 and 16 November. Here, working with a range of voluntary participants, they will use the process of hairstyling to explore the cultural significance of hair and the role persona plays in hairdressing. During the session, participants will reflect on the significance of their current styling choices and create a hairstyle that represents their own Crown of Confidence. The results of the Crowns of Confidence research project will be shared in the pop-up salon from 22 November 2014 – 11 January 2015.
Ojeireke’s work is held in a variety of public and private collections, including the Tate (London), Getty Museum (Los Angeles), Foundation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain (Paris), Musée du Quai Branly (Paris), Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain (Geneva), National Arts Council (Lagos), Guggenheim Museum (Bilbao), Collection Agnes b. (Paris), Jean Pigozzi Collection (Geneva), Smithosian Institution (Washington) as well as the Walther Collection (New York). This collection was presented in the International Pavilion in the Venice Biennale 2013.
