CIUDAD VICTORIA.- In the semi-desert plains of Tamaulipas, a remarkable story of cultural heritage is unfolding. At the INAH Tamaulipas Center, the exhibition I Know a Family from Southwestern Tamaulipas: The Gaytán Reyes. Potters of Santa Ana de Nahola offers a poignant look at a pottery tradition stretching back an incredible 3,000 years.
At the heart of this story is Dońa Felipa Reyes, an 88-year-old master potter from Santa Ana de Nahola. She began crafting comales (griddles) as a teenager and soon progressed to making pots, inheriting a craft passed down through generations of women in her family: her great-grandmother, grandmother, mother, and sister. Now, she and her daughter, Adela Gaytán, are sharing their invaluable knowledge with the world.
Between 2023 and 2024, Dońa Felipa and Adela collaborated with Tonantzin Silva Cárdenas, director of INAH Tamaulipas, and archaeologist Esteban Ávalos Beltrán, documenting every step of their intricate process. This documentation has culminated in the current exhibition, which features photographs, tools, and finished ceramic pieces, telling the story of this vital tradition.
The exhibition, a selection from 1,600 photographs taken by Ávalos, offers a rare glimpse into a world largely unknown. These images showcase the remarkable skills and deep connection to nature that define Nahola's pottery. Ávalos notes that the ceramics share striking similarities with artifacts found at ancient archaeological sites in northeastern Mexico, suggesting a continuous tradition spanning millennia.
This connection to the past inspired the project Dissemination of the Ceramic Tradition in Southwestern Tamaulipas, led by Silva and Ávalos. The project aims to study and promote both ancient and contemporary pottery practices in the region through publications, including the INAH-published book Los invisibles, and now this captivating exhibition.
The process itself is a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the Nahola potters. As Ávalos describes, "In Nahola, activities linked to the pre-Hispanic and historical past are preserved. They do not have contemporary tools; everything they need is provided by the mountains and the plains. It is impressive to see how they use natural resources."
The journey begins with a search for raw materials during the dry season. The men of the Gaytán Reyes family, Don Juan and Don Lorenzo, venture into the Sierra Madre Oriental, navigating narrow paths to extract blocks of gypsum and clay. Obtaining clay is particularly challenging, requiring a descent into a 15-meter-deep shaft a risky endeavor due to the potential for landslides.
Once extracted, the gypsum and clay are crushed, ground, and mixed to create a durable material. Dońa Felipa and Adela then shape this mixture into various forms: pots, bowls (cajetes), plates, griddles (comales), large jars (purrones), cups, vases, and large cooking pots (apaxtles).
The process is meticulous and hands-on. They begin by shaping the base of the piece, then add portions of the mixture, smoothing the joins with their fingertips. A corncob is used to "comb" the surface, and handles and other details are added before a final smoothing. After drying for several days, the pieces are polished with river stones to achieve a smooth, glossy finish.
The firing process is equally traditional. A hearth is dug in the patio, and the pottery is fired using local wood, with different types of wood used for comales and pots. While comales are fired individually, several pots can be fired simultaneously. Some pieces are then decorated with simple floral designs using chapopote (asphalt).
The exhibition at the INAH Tamaulipas Center, open Monday to Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. until May 14, 2025, serves as more than just a display of artifacts. It is a tribute to a living tradition, a testament to the skill and dedication of the Nahola potters. However, the exhibition also sounds a note of caution. The tradition faces threats from migration, competition from industrial production, and limited access to natural resources. This exhibition serves as a vital reminder of the importance of preserving these invaluable cultural practices for generations to come. The exhibition will then travel to the Huasteca Museum in Tampico.