ATHENS.- Henry Miller once wrote, “The light of Greece opened my eyes, penetrated my pores, expanded my whole being.” Greece can be enlightening — and nowhere more so than its capital city, Athens. But it’s also true that, in the summer, it can feel burning hot, with an average temperature of 84 degrees Fahrenheit.

And those temperatures are rising. Athens has endured record heat in recent years, and this summer is no different: Greece and much of Southern Europe have sweltered under a series of seemingly never-ending heat waves. When you combine the heat with the millions of tourists who visit Athens every year, the city can seem more overwhelming than enriching.

But do not fret. Below is a guide that will help you experience the Greek capital’s glorious past and buzzing modern life while avoiding the worst of the crowds and steamy weather.

Meticulously time your site visits

Athens draws visitors with its ancient ruins, and the Acropolis is the most visited archaeological site in Greece. While avoiding crowds there is difficult, it is not impossible.

First, avoid the long entrance lines by booking your tickets online (20 euros, or about $22, for a single-entry adult ticket). Another booking option, the Athena’s Combined Ticket (adults, 30 euros), provides access to six more sites in Athens, including the nearby Agora. Start your day here, before 11 a.m., when most tourists are at the Acropolis.

Your best window for a less crowded visit to the Acropolis is between 1 p.m. and 5 p.m., when most visitors eat lunch. But the sun is high, and it’s been very hot, so take precautions with the weather: Wear a hat and sunscreen, walk slowly, find shade where you can, drink plenty of liquids and take a bottle of water with you. And listen to your body — if it’s too hot, hold off. Also note that starting Sept. 4, the Acropolis will be capped to 20,000 daily visitors. Greek authorities are experimenting with the limit to help combat overcrowding at the site.

Rhamnous, about an hour’s drive from downtown Athens, is a less crowded archaeological attraction — and it has ocean views (adults, 4 euros). But wear comfortable shoes, as it is about a half-mile from the site’s entrance to the remnants of this ancient city.

Eat like a Greek

With the sizzling summer temperatures, follow the local traditions when it comes to eating. Have a full breakfast in the morning, only a light bite in the afternoon and full dinner in the evening — after 8 p.m., when the heat starts to subside.

In terms of finding Greek cuisine, restaurants abound all over the city. In Piraeus, get seafood, such as sea urchin and shrimp pasta, at Yperokeanio, a tavern where the scenery feels like a time capsule of a 1950s movie. LS and SIA in the neighborhood of Psyri, in central Athens, offers a contemporary spin on traditional specialties, while Mavros Gatos, a mostly tourist-free haunt in the hip neighborhood of Pangrati, makes delicious meat dishes. For an upscale option by the sea and the best views of the Athens Riviera, go to Ithaki restaurant. Reservations are recommended for all of the above.

The country is also known for its small plates, and an Athens stop for meze is Rantevou in Petralona, an urban neighborhood that most tourists have yet to discover. Like the locals, order a glass of tsipouro, a strong, distilled-grape spirit, with your meal.

Roam farther in the city




The neighborhoods most popular with tourists are beautiful Plaka and lively Monastiraki, ancient enclaves now teeming with visitors. Get away from the crowds in neighborhoods such as the multicultural Kypseli — where you can have a coffee at Agiou Georgiou Square or small bites and drinks at Eprepe Bar — and the gritty Metaxourgeio. Attractions and studios in this creative, artist-friendly neighborhood include the newly opened Alekos Fassianos Museum (10 euros for adults, 7 euros for students) as well as the contemporary Rebecca Camhi Gallery and Breeder Gallery.

You can take the metro or the bus (Adult day ticket: 4.10 euros), or hail one of the city’s yellow taxis. Most taxi drivers accept only cash, unless you book a ride using Uber or the Free Now app most drivers in Athens use.

First culture, then cool off with a swim

It’s not summer without swimming, right? You can get a dose of culture as well as cool off on a day trip to Sounion, a peninsula about 43 miles from downtown Athens. Take the bus or a car to the imposing Temple of Poseidon (adults, 10 euros), from where ancient Greek King Aegeus is said to have jumped thus giving his name to the Aegean Sea, and after your visit, have a swim at Kape Beach. Note that weekdays are less crowded at this beautiful beach, as Athenians rush there on weekends.

Greece is a country of islands, so other options for temples and swimming include the nearby island of Aegina. You can explore the Temple of Aphaia after taking one of the multiple ferries from Piraeus that run all day, and the journey lasts about an hour, with the prices ranging from 10 euros to 19 euros for a one-way ticket. A 15-minute boat ride away from Aegina, the islet of Moni offers greenery and amazing blue waters.

For a swim closer to the city, visit the more upscale Astir Beach (umbrella rentals for two people start at 80 euros), or the hot mineral baths of Lake Vouliagmeni (adult day passes, 16 euros on weekdays and 19 euros on weekends), both in the glamorous seaside suburb of Vouliagmeni.

Catch a movie

To truly experience summer as a local, go to one of Athens’ many open-air cinemas. Most offer nightly screenings at 9 p.m. and 11 p.m., after the heat has abated, and show English-language films with Greek subtitles — or Greek with English subtitles. You might want to come hungry: In Greece, it is customary to drink beer and eat a hot dog while watching a film.

The most popular location in Athens is Cine Thisio, which has impressive views of the Acropolis. More neighborly venues include Cine Oasis, a cinema filled with fresh flowers in Pangrati, and Cine Zephyros in Petralona, which screens classic and art house films. For newer releases, go to the terrace at Cine Anesis.

Booking online is not necessary, as usually only Cine Thisio has long lines, but it is recommended (adult ticket prices for all theaters, 6.50 euros to 8.50 euros).

Take in nature

On a cooler day, experience nature by hiking Mount Hymettus, just outside downtown Athens and above the Kaisariani neighborhood. With a height of more than 3,000 feet, Mount Hymettus has a lot to discover, including Greek Orthodox monasteries and caves. It’s a good alternative to the more touristy Lycabettus Hill.

Or walk around the free National Garden and the Zappeion Megaron conference and cultural center. On your walk, notice not just the surrounding flora and fauna, but also the sculptures, which range from busts of the first Greek statesman Ioannis Kapodistrias to a 19th-century sculpture of Eros breaking his bow.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.