LONDON.- On 11 June 2015, Sotheby’s London sale of Fine Jewels will offer a wide variety of stunning jewels from the 17th century to the present. Renowned designers have often turned to the beautiful forms of nature for inspiration and this auction features stand-out designs from those such as René Lalique, Mauboussin, Ernst Paltscho and Vacheron Constantin, as well as pieces from great houses such as Cartier and Graff. This season, for the first time ever, visitors to Sotheby’s pre-sale exhibition can enjoy a special tea and refreshments among the jewels provided by Sketch.

JEWELS IN FULL BLOOM
Floral motifs have always been popular with jewellers for their intricate forms and bold colours. Vacheron Constantin, known for its exceptional watches, is represented here by a yellow diamond brooch and striking pair of earrings each designed as a pair of flowers ave-set with brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow and near colourless tint (Lot 116, est. £8,000– 12,000/ €11,300–16,900/ US$ 12,000-18,000).

Floral brooches are distinguished in the sale with their delicate designs, for instance a pair of gem set and diamond brooches, circa 1960, depicted as a beautiful spray of wild roses and lily of the valley (Lot 91, est. £5,000-7,000 / €7,100-9,900/ US$ 7,500-10,500), and a sapphire and diamond brooch set with pear- and shield-shaped sapphires, circular- and single-cut diamonds (Lot 191, est. £8,000–12,000/ €11,300–6,900/ US$ 12,000–18,000).

ART NOUVEAU & ART DECO PIECES
Art Nouveau jewellery is spearheaded by René Lalique designs from the early 20th century, such as a gold and plique-à-jour enamel chain of floral motifs (Lot 247 est. £15,000–20,000/ €21,000–28,1000/ US$ 22,500-29,900), and a gold and enamel jewel bracelet. Adorned with scarab beetles and foliate motifs, this enchanting bracelet was given as a gift from René Lalique to his daughter Suzanne Lalique (Lot 248, est. £22,000–32,000/ €30,900–44,900/ US$ 32,900-47,900).

Art Deco jewels from the 1930s are showcased by an exquisite hardstone, enamel and diamond bracelet, attributed to Ernst Paltscho (Lot 283, est. £15,000–20,000/ €21,100–28,100/ US$ 22,500–29,900). It was made at the time that Ernst Paltscho became famous for colourful carved hardstone jewels.

Cartier has long been at the forefront of some of the most important jewellery design trends of the 20th century and features strongly in the sale. Testament to the geometric design of the jeweller’s Art Deco period is a wonderful 1930s citrine and diamond brooch and ring (Lot 103, est. £14,000–18,000/ €19,700–25,300/ US$ 21,000–27,000).

ANTIQUE JEWELLERY
The beauty and elegance of antique jewels is displayed through a wide range of pieces from the 19th century. Taking centre stage is the cover lot – a stunning Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Brooch from the late 19th century, of ribbon bow design with a detachable emerald drop, encircled by a serpent set with rose diamonds and cabochon ruby eyes (Lot 210, est. £20,000–30,000/ €28,100–42,100/ US$ 29,000–44,900).

An impressive jewel from the late 19th century which also boasts aristocratic provenance is a diamond brooch portrayed as an eagle from The Estate of the late Marquess of Anglesey. Four similarly designed eagles are depicted on the Anglesey Coat of Arms (Lot 40, est. £10,000–15,000/ €14,100–21,100/ US$ 15,000–22,500).

Natural pearls have been star performers at auction recently and this sale offers a late 19th century natural pearl and diamond pendant, which comprises of a wonderful natural pearl drop to a rose diamond surmount (Lot 199, est. £10,000–15,000/ €14,100–21,100/ US$ 15,000– 22,500).

DIAMONDS
A diamond ring weighing 6.50 carats, of exceptional colour and clarity (E, V52) is a highlight within an impressive selection of beautiful diamonds (Lot 398, est. £120,000–180,000/ €169,000–253,000/ US$ 180,000-270,000).

Among a group of fancy coloured diamonds is a fancy deep brownish yellow diamond and diamond ring weighing 4.21 carats (Lot 126, Est. £20,000-30,000/ €28,100-42,100/ US$ 29,900-44,900), and a pair of fancy coloured diamond earrings, the brilliant-cut fancy orange brown diamonds weighing 3.12 and 3.20 carats respectively (Lot 111, est. £28,000–38,000/ €39,300–53,500/ US$ 41,900–57,000).

SIGNED JEWELS
Modern, signed jewels are well-represented with examples from famous houses such as De Beers and Graff. From Graff, the sale features a pair of diamond ear clips set with brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 3.27 and 3.21 carats (Lot 399, est. £50,000–70,000/ €70,500–98,500/ US$ 75,000-105,000). From De Beers there are several jewels including a Diamond parure consisting of a bracelet and a pair of ear clips each designed as flower motifs (Lot 121, est. £8,000–12,000/ €11,300–19,900/ US$ 12,000–18,000).

‘STUART CRYSTAL’ AND ‘MOMENTO MORI’ JEWELS
Evocative of Royalist fashion during the tumultuous era of the Stuarts is an impressive private collection of very delicate, late 17th and early 18th-century ‘Stuart Crystal’ and ‘Momento Mori’ mourning jewels. Emblazoned with skulls, skeletons and coffins, these jewels were widely worn to remind owners of their mortality (Lots 212, 216, 215). They gained in popularity at the same time as the proliferation of Royalist ‘Stuart’ jewels, which were secretly sported by Royalists concealing portraits of Charles I after the regicide of the King in 1649. With an estimate of £1,000–1,500 (€1,450–2,150/ US$ 1,500–2,250), lot 212 is a Gold ‘Stuart Crystal’ mourning slide from the 1690s depicting a skeleton resting on a tomb.