V&A acquires behind-the-scenes photographs by Ann Ray of Lee Alexander McQueen at work
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V&A acquires behind-the-scenes photographs by Ann Ray of Lee Alexander McQueen at work
Unfallen Angels II, 2009. © Ann Ray / Victoria and Albert Museum, London.



LONDON.- The V&A has acquired 13 photographs by Ann Ray (also known as Anne Deniau) from an extraordinary body of work described by Lee Alexander McQueen as ‘my life in pictures’.

McQueen and Ray formed a close friendship in the 1990s and between 1997 and 2010, Ray was granted great freedom to photograph in McQueen’s studio and at his shows with ‘no guidelines’. The resulting photographs capture the frenetic activity behind-the-scenes of every catwalk show, the intense preparations for each spectacular performance as well as portraits of the designer in reflective and joyous moments. In total Ray shot approximately 35,000 photographs, all on film.

Ann Ray was born in Brest, France, in 1969. She took up photography in the 1990s and lived in Tokyo from 1995 to 1997, working for clients such as Cartier and Givenchy. Her images appeared in publications including Elle, Marie Claire and La Seine. She began working with McQueen when she moved to London. They shared a passion for the handcrafted and unique. Ray is fascinated by 19th and early 20thcentury processes and employs printing techniques such as bromoil and gum bichromate, even hand painting on lith prints with watercolours and oils.

The works acquired by the V&A include a gum bichromate print from 2002, two unique vivid blue cyanotypes from 1998, and 10 gelatin silver prints dating from 1998 to 2010. Four of the photographs were purchased by the V&A through the Cecil Beaton Fund, a further nine were given to the Museum by Ann Ray. Three of the photographs have never before been published.

Ann Ray said: “Beyond the true honour and joy it represents for an artist to enter a photography collection like the one of the V&A, I am deeply convinced that it makes so much sense. Lee Alexander McQueen treasured the V&A and enjoyed being there. With these 13 iconic photographs entering the Museum collection, as the Savage Beauty exhibition is about to begin, I just feel that they are at the right place, at the right time. As for the man himself, I knew him well, and I loved him well… Being gifted with his trust, and being keen to do my duty and manage his ‘life in pictures’, I cherish the idea that these photographs made with a fierce passion and full dedication – art for art, indeed – are now at a place that Lee would joyfully approve. I warmly thank the V&A, Claire Wilcox and Susanna Brown in helping me doing what I believe is right. Lee is at home at the V&A. After five years when I missed him every day, I can smile.”

Susanna Brown, V&A Curator of Photographs, said: “Ann Ray’s photographs are filled with poetry, lyricism and drama. Through Ann’s generosity, the V&A has been able to acquire a wonderful selection of photographs spanning Ann and McQueen’s long collaboration. It is particularly exciting to be the first museum in the world to include her work in our permanent collection.”

The photographs are available to view by appointment in the V&A’s Prints and Drawings Study Room.










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