KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA.-In connection with Malaysia’s 50th anniversary of independence, the Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia is launching “Neither East Nor West: The Lafayette Collection: Asia in the Age of Monochrome.” This is the first exhibition in Asia to be held in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, custodians of the Lafayette Collection.

The theme of the exhibition is the exchange of cultures between East and West in the ‘Age of Monochrome’ – the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The title “Neither East nor West” comes from a poem by Rudyard Kipling, showing that differences in geography, race and class are of no consequence when individuals of different backgrounds work together. This would be a reflection of the sitters who were photographed by the Lafayette Studio of London.

These sitters included many of Asia’s rulers. In addition to numerous maharajas and other dignitaries from India, Lafayette’s clientele included influential figures from elsewhere in Asia, including Malaysia. The IAMM exhibition shows a wide range of individuals from Thailand, Japan, China and the Malay Peninsula. Photos of Europeans who were relevant to Asia’s development are also part of the exhibition.

The international nature of these different ruling classes is clearly apparent. Not only did they use the same photographic studio; they also attended the same events and often dressed in the same way. The exhibition is divided into four sections: Asian, European, Uniforms and Onlookers. By examining the way these individuals dressed, it is clear that influences travelled in all directions. Europeans were as taken with elaborate Asian style as Asians were with European sartorial simplicity.

The sitters in the Lafayette photographs keep their identity while participating in a newly emerged global environment. The IAMM exhibition explores the elements in these portraits that show adherence to tradition in a changing world. Even where people appear to have adopted European style, they still retain some references to their own culture in their choice of jewellery, weapons, headdress, shoes or fabrics. Adapting oneself to new influences is among the most obvious signs of creativity.

The late 19th and early 20th centuries may have been oppressively ‘Victorian’ for many, but for the elite this was a time of openness and international understanding. The Lafayette Studio is a symbol of this dual role: a force that brought people from many parts of the world together for their mutual benefit. This force also led to an ultimately non-confrontational approach to independence, especially evident in Malaysia. One section of the exhibition will be dedicated to ‘Merdeka’, in all its photographic glory.

To give an additional taste of the times, IAMM will be re-creating a photo studio of 100 years ago. With appropriate photographic equipment, props and backdrops, this provides a glimpse into a complex and costly world that has been eclipsed by the age of the digital camera.