ROTTERDAM.- This winter, you can immerse youselve in the world of the Diva at the Kunsthal. The exhibition DIVA celebrates the unprecedented power and boundless feminine creativity of iconic performers who have been challenging the status quo with their bravura and ambition. With over sixty looks and costume designs by world-famous designers – worn by people like Maria Callas, Josephine Baker, Marilyn Monroe, Tina Turner, Shirley Bassey, Cher, Elton John, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Björk, and Billie Eilish –, the exhibition shows how these divas have used their performing arts to push boundaries and make a lasting impact on society.

DIVA takes you on a journey that begins in the world of 19th-century opera goddesses and ends up in the contemporary pop and rock ‘n roll culture of global superstars. Originally meaning goddess, the exhibition explores the significance of the term diva. Over the years the term has been cherished and rejected, but was later reclaimed and embraced by performance culture as an honorary title. In the exhibition, you are guided past costumes, designer looks, personal objects, photos, videos, and a musical surround sound experience in a compelling exhibition design by Studio Harm Rensink.

Opera goddesses

The first part of the exhibition zooms in on the historical context of the diva. In the 19th-century, this term was used to describe exceptional, female opera singers. On display are costumes of early opera stars like Adelina Patti and Jenny Lind, as well as an impressive ensemble once worn by ‘La Divina’ Maria Callas in the 1952 production of the opera Norma. Against a background of changing views on femininity, power, and creativity, these women conquered the stage and campaigned for equality. At the same time they were criticised for straying off the beaten track. Handwritten texts, video clips, and classic costumes show how actresses in the late 19th and early 20th century, including the leading British Shakespearean actress Ellen Terry, and the Dutch-French stage legend Sarah Bernhardt, were instrumental in propelling the first feminist wave. It will also become clear how divas like Josephine Baker, Elizabeth Taylor, Mae West, Vivien Leigh, and Marilyn Monroe have shaped popular culture.

The evolution of the diva

In the second part of the exhibition, you step into a new universe, celebrating the diva of today. Among the highlights are costumes worn by Cher and P!nk, Tina Turner’s famous ‘flame dress’ — designed by the American designer Bob Mackie — and Shirley Bassey's pink Julien MacDonald dress (complete with diamante-studded rubber boots), which she wore during a concert at Glastonbury. DIVA sheds light on how these contemporary artists are continuing to build on the foundations that were laid by earlier generations of artists whose groundbreaking work caused a stir in the male-dominated worlds of film and music.

Status, power, freedom

The exhibition shows no less than five of Rihanna’s iconic looks, including a pope-inspired gown designed by John Galliano for Maison Margiela, and a head-to-toe black Balenciaga look. In 2018 and 2021, the singer wore these breathtaking creations on the stairs at the Met Gala in New York. The exhibition pays attention to how modern divas are also emerging as astute business women and are taking control of their own public image. Rihanna's cosmetics brand Fenty Beauty, and Dolly Parton’s poseable dolls are only a few examples of how divas have been extending their musical influence into the world of business. Also featured in the exhibition is Barbra Streisand who, in 1983, was the first woman to write, produce, direct as well as star in her own film. Flyers, posters, and video clips furthermore show how revolutionary artists like Billy Holiday and Nina Simone spoke out against racism through their songs, and used their voice to bring about political and social change.

Express yourself

DIVA shows the frosty blue ballgown Lady Gaga wore to the 2019 Golden Globes, as well as the gold floral gown sported by Björk — both designed by the fashion house Valentino. Through spectacular performances, controversial music videos, and extravagant costumes, these artists show that they are not afraid of transformation and are constantly challenging the established order. The ‘blue meanies’ outfit worn by Billie Eilish and designed by Stella McCartney is also on display. The young singer with her raw and honest lyrics and distinct streetstyle has since become a global icon. The Louis XIV-inspired look Sir Elton John wore on his fiftieth birthday illustrates that the term diva may also apply to masculine artists. Through items like Lil Nas X’s lilac Versace suit and Prince’s high heeled shoes, you become acquainted with artists who have been tearing down gender stereotypes with their performances and looks.