ABIDJAN.- The wealthy pros of Ivory Coasts national soccer team were resting in their luxury hotel last week, preparing for a match in Africas biggest tournament, when Yaya Camara sprinted onto a dusty lot and began fizzing one pass after another to his friends.
Over and over, he corralled the games underinflated ball and then sent it away again with his favorite soccer shoes: worn plastic sandals long derided as the sneaker of the poor, but that he and his friends wear as a badge of honor.
Shiny soccer cleats like his idols? No thanks, said Camara, a lean 18-year-old midfielder, as he wiped sweat from his brow.
How did the pros start playing when they were kids like us? With lękę, he added, referring to the sandals, which are ubiquitous not only in his pickup game but almost any place an Ivorian puts their feet.
While the best African teams run out in expensive branded cleats at this years continental soccer championship, the Africa Cup of Nations, it is in lękę (pronounced leh-keh) that amateur players craft the best street soccer.
They praise the cheaper sandals for their practicality Theyre lighter, they fit better and theyre more comfortable where we play, as Camara put it in games that take place not on manicured grass fields in shiny new stadiums but on countless sandy pitches, dusty courtyards and narrow alleyways.
Lękę are the national shoes of Ivory Coast, said Seydou Traoré, his feet resting inside an orange pair (the national color) as he watched a nerve-wracking match on a television pulled into the street alongside dozens of neighbors and friends. Many of them wore lękę, too.
It is unclear how the shoe became so popular in Ivory Coast. Most players said they had been wearing them since they were toddlers. Children wear them to school. And they blossom on countless feet when the streets of Abidjan fill with water during the rainy season.
And while the jelly shoe has become trendy in the fashion world in recent years, with luxury brands like Gucci making their own version, theyre chic in Ivory Coast for reasons of both style and pragmatism.
Apart from in the office, you can wear them everywhere, even at a party, said Traoré, an amateur player who once competed in Ivory Coasts second league.
Heels, dress shoes or leather sandals remain the favored shoes for the office in Ivory Coast, one of West Africas largest economies and home to a dynamic middle class. But the appeal of lękę shone through few years ago, when a famous singer-turned-businessman posed on the cover of a style magazine wearing a Western-style gray suit and white plastic sandals.
The story goes that the jelly sandal was born in 1946, when a French knifemaker invented the original model as a way to use a large batch of plastic he had ordered to make knives. Its original shape soles studded with spikes, a round tip and a basket-weave top has barely changed in decades.
The French company that now owns the patent, Humeau-Beaupreau, sells 800,000 pairs a year, according to a representative of the company. But the bulk of the lękę seen across West Africa are manufactured locally; in Ivory Coast, one can buy a pair on almost every street corner for about $1.50.
On a recent afternoon, Céliba Coulibaly and Saliou Diallo were purchasing a new pair chap chap, they said, or hurriedly because they had tickets to collect for a Cup of Nations match later that day featuring Guinea, Diallos home country.
Of course they would go to the stadium in lękę, Diallo said. Theyre light and comfortable, he added. What else would I wear?
In Ivory Coast, amateur soccer players are divided on the best model to wear those bearing the name of Argentine star Lionel Messi, or those named after Basile Boli, an Ivorian-born French player who retired from soccer before many of those now wearing lękę were born.
As soccer shoes, lękę are a short-term commitment, since the straps often break after only a few weeks. They are replaced only when they cant hold the feet anymore, so worn soles are a point of pride proof of hours of uninterrupted play on scrappy fields locally known as Maracana, in homage to the famed soccer stadium in Rio de Janeiro. The scars and scratches left on feet by the metallic strap are both a badge of suffering and a symbol of dedication to the game, players say.
Let a guy come with proper sneakers and well make fun of him: You think youre a professional player or what? Iliass Sanogo said as he watched a group of friends all wearing lękę play in the hazy twilight.
Street vendors said the popularity of the sandals colored with the Ivorian flag (orange, white and green) had soared during the Africa Cup of Nations.
Then we started losing and sales collapsed, joked one of them, Aboubakar Samaké, as he hawked jerseys for the tournaments teams and all kinds of green and orange goodies, from bracelets to lękę, in a bustling neighborhood in Abidjan.
The drop in sales might also be because Samaké, describing his mood as overwhelmed after one particularly crushing loss, didnt leave the house for two days.
But discouragement isnt an Ivorian thing, Samaké quickly added, now back at work.
A few hours later, Ivory Coasts national team was scheduled to face the reigning Cup of Nations champion, Senegal. Camara, dusty and sweaty from his pickup game, rushed home, dropped his lękę and jumped in the shower. He resurfaced minutes later wearing an Ivory Coast jersey and clean jeans. He left his lękę to rest, donned flip-flops, and strolled to a nearby kiosk to watch his team win.
This article originally appeared in
The New York Times.