TUSCANY.- If the baronessa Beatrice Monti della Corte has found a secret to life, it is stories.
At the Santa Maddalena writers residency at her rambling estate in rural Tuscany, Monti has hosted some of the foremost storytellers of our time Zadie Smith, Michael Cunningham, Colm Tóibín, Teju Cole, Sally Rooney, Olga Tokarczuk, Michael Ondaatje, Edmund White and a couple hundred others. Although authors appreciate her hushed writing rooms with olive grove vistas, her company is the principal draw.
The only things Beatrice wont talk about, Smith said, are things that are boring.
At 97, Monti is animated and unstoppable. She runs Santa Maddalena as her personal passion project, accepting no applications and choosing writers according to her instincts, in consultation with her network of friends, publishers and other authors. Her taste, developed over a lifetime of nurturing and being nurtured by literature and art, is considered a bellwether, with several fellows going on to win the Nobel, the Pulitzer, the Booker, the Prix Goncourt.
At Santa Maddalena, literature is the primary value, said Cunningham, an annual visitor for two decades. There are times when I swear that enough significant work has been done in those rooms that theyre imbued with something, the way smoke will eventually inhabit the walls of a place.
Nestled among the orchard slopes beyond Florence, Santa Maddalena appears like a quintessential Tuscan idyll: an ivy-cloaked farmhouse from the 1500s, a medieval stone watchtower, a swimming pool in the garden. But its also a worldly enclave: The pool is where actor Ralph Fiennes, a friend of Montis since filming The English Patient nearby, likes to sunbathe in the summer; the tower is where writer Bruce Chatwin would spend months working on his books between travels; the farmhouse cleared by Monti of occupying chickens was remodeled with modernist architect Marco Zanuso.
Id never seen anything so beautiful in my life, Smith said of her initial visit to the estate a quiet escape from the cyclone of fame after her publication of White Teeth. I was such a parochial person. Part of Santa Maddalena was understanding that Willesden is not the center of the world, she said of the suburb in northwest London.
After her stay, Smith relocated to Rome for two years, learned Italian and even adopted a pug identical to the dog faithfully found by Montis side. She has returned repeatedly to the writers residence ever since.
On a recent afternoon, Monti was upstairs in her sitting room, healing from a tumble that left her with four stitches on her face but her spirit unscathed: A fallen woman, she deadpanned. Her eyes were the blanched blue of sea glass, a silk scarf was knotted around her neck, and she was surrounded with books and artworks by the illustrious talents who have populated her life. Behind her was a canvas by Antoni Tàpies; Santa Maddalena has become a home to writers, but it also houses a decent museums worth of modern art.
Her involvement with the art world began during her childhood on the island of Capri, she recounted, when she was the adolescent mascot of a creative milieu that included Italys premier novelists of the time, palling around with Alberto Moravia, Elsa Morante and Curzio Malaparte, the last of whom enjoyed bike-riding naked on the roof of his supervillain lairlike house.
There was a sense of total freedom in Capri then, she said. That island turned me eccentric for life.
Her mother, an Armenian from Istanbul (then known as Constantinople), had died of typhus when Monti was 6. Her father, an Italian aristocrat, was away for years in Ethiopia as cultural attache and later as a prisoner of war leaving the child stranded with a callous stepmother. The writers and artists seemed more agreeable to me, she said. Both would buoy her life.
In 1955, Monti founded the Galleria dellAriete in Milan. At 25, she was one of few female gallery owners and rapidly established herself as the vanguard with early exhibitions of New Yorks new school of abstraction Robert Rauschenberg, Jasper Johns, Cy Twombly, Mark Rothko and of Italian painters and sculptors who defined an era Lucio Fontana, Pietro Consagra, Carla Accardi, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Enrico Castellani and Piero Manzoni (indelible for his literal cans of Artists Shit).
But for Monti, these earthshaking artists were simply more of her interesting friends friends who would drop by unannounced for dinner and leave her artworks such as the monumental stone vulva now in her living room, for which she said she provided the inspiration.
The baronessa married Gregor von Rezzori, a lauded writer, in 1967, and together they discovered the dilapidated Tuscan farm that became their home. She shuttered the gallery space in 1979, taking on an artistic role at Condé Nast and Vanity Fair, and bracketed work with world travel and countryside living with Grisha, as he was known to friends.
As a child mourning her deceased mother, Monti had been consoled with a litter of puppies, and she has surrounded herself with them ever since. When she lost Grisha in 1998, she erected a stone pyramid in his honor near his favorite writing spot in the garden it stands about 6 feet tall, like Grisha himself. He had begged her not to become a lugubrious widow, and she soon launched the Santa Maddalena Foundation, surrounding herself, in this bereavement, with writers.
The experience of Santa Maddalena, for writers, crystallizes at the table, where leisurely multicourse lunches and dinners are consumed communally each day with wine, if you please. On a warm fall day, Monti and the fellows-in-residence sat around the courtyard table, where, over plates of broccoli pesto pasta, Parmesan and prosciutto boards, fresh fruits and final tarts, the conversation veered from the translation of inner monologues to postcards from German writer W.G. Sebald to Montis Madrid adventures with director Pedro Almodóvar.
Its the Italian tradition of dining as a discussion, German author Hans von Trotha commented over dessert.
At Santa Maddalena, unhurried meals, served with Montis century of stories and the camaraderie of tableside banter, break up the workday. The retreat functions like a sleepaway camp for great writers; its ritual group meals and hourslong chats bonding residents in what many described as everlasting friendships.
After lunch, Swedish writer Karin Altenberg, a six-time fellow, gave a tour of Chatwins former tower room, where she was currently working. A curtained four-poster bed and an antique desk chair unacquainted with terms such as ergonomic or back support shared space with an apparently active colony of geckos. The room opened out onto expansive valley views.
Santa Maddalena is a place where creativity is freed, Altenberg said, a private home whose idiosyncrasies and surprises Isabella Rossellini dropped in for dinner one evening! bolster the writing process.
There are things around your room that might inspire you, or it could be the person youre sharing the tower with or even something annoying, like bats attacking you, said Andrew Sean Greer, who directed Santa Maddalena for two years and won the Pulitzer while residing across the hall from Monti. He declined to comment further on the bats. Writers either absolutely love Santa Maddalena, or they leave in a week, he noted.
Writing is a portable art, and location can play a powerful role in informing even fiction. At the retreat, the real-life characters and situations often weave their way into writers stories.
One day, I decided that no matter what happened at Santa Maddalena, Tóibín said, the events would become the first pages of my novel about Henry James. And, in fact, The Master begins with scenes drawn from his observations of Montis formal table manners, an outing to nearby Siena and an elderly Russian princesss visit to the estate.
Santa Maddalena is not a writers residence in the institutional sense, Tóibín said.
The paintings, the books, the presence of Beatrice form a generous wellspring of creativity for those who trade in the imagination, he said, recalling an incident of a hat on a bed considered very bad luck to the superstitious in Italy where dispelling the hex required a ceremony of interpersonal gonad-touching.
Santa Maddalena has no endowment, with financial support coming principally from the occasional sale of an artwork or an old jewel of her mothers. Monti is the foundations current director, its one-person advisory panel, its entertainment committee, its auction-house fundraiser and its dowager guiding light. Now, she said, Im also a builder. Rather than slow down as she approaches her 98th birthday, she is constructing a three-story library at Santa Maddalena. Its a gamble, she confided, inspecting the librarys cement foundations, set among bamboo and oak tree woods. I need to finish it before I die.
For Monti, a lifelong companion to creativity, the story continues. There are old people who only think about the past, but its not like that around here. She leaned her cane on a rock. You have to do things, she reflected. Theres always a future, even if its very small.
This article originally appeared in
The New York Times.