LONDON.- This autumn, the
Serpentine presents Passer-by, a new exhibition by Atelier E.B, the collaborative fashion label by designer Beca Lipscombe and artist Lucy McKenzie. Taking the figure of the mannequin as its central theme, the exhibition transforms the Gallery into three distinct interiors: a bespoke showroom for Atelier E.Bs latest collection, in which visitors are able to try on and order clothes; a display of historic material, photography and objects, and a series of newly-commissioned works by contemporary artists including Tauba Auerbach, Anna Blessmann, Marc Camille Chaimowicz, Steff Norwood, Elizabeth Radcliffe, Bernie Reid and Markus Selg. Along with collaborations with artists Markus Proschek, Josephine Pryde and Calum Stirling and photographer Zoë Ghertner, the show features the work of more than 40 makers spanning fashion, sculpture, painting, graphic and commercial design, photography, craft and film. Passer-by is a hybrid dreamscape - part World Fair pavilion, part retail emporium and explores the future of retail display in the digital age.
Atelier E.B creates fashion collections, commissioned displays and interiors, as well as textiles, live events and publications. At the Serpentine, Lipscombe and McKenzie explore the relationships between art, design, commerce and display. Mannequins are part of the rich history of display in consumer culture and for this exhibition Atelier E.B has extensively researched their roles in the World Fairs of the early 20th century through to the department store, ethnographic museum displays and fashion retail under Communism.
Atelier E.Bs selection of historic sculptures, photographs and objects includes works by mannequin-maker Adel Rootstein, sculptor Rudolf Belling and couturier Charles James, artists Lynn Hershman Leeson and Fred Wilson and fashion photographer Pasquale De Antonis among many others. These interests extend to the history of window dressing and its expert 'trimmers, including Gene Moore famous for designing windows at Tiffany and Company, New York in the 1950s, Natasha Kroll for her work at Simpsons of Piccadilly, London and Michael Haynes for designing the seminal exhibition Fashion: An Anthology at the V&A in 1971 organised by Cecil Beaton. His relationship with cultural institutions created a template for exhibiting contemporary fashion that is enjoyed by the wider public today.
Collaboration is at the core of Atelier E.Bs practice, which is characterised by a passion for working with artisan materials and quality-led production methods. For this exhibition, Lipscombe and McKenzie invited seven contemporary artists to produce a mannequin or display device on which to present garments from their previous fashion collections. These artists recognise the cultural significance of clothing within their own practice and are customers and collaborators of the label. They include Tauba Auerbach, Anna Blessmann, Marc Camille Chaimowicz, Steff Norwood, Elizabeth Radcliffe, Bernie Reid and Markus Selg.
Jasperwear, Atelier E.Bs highly anticipated new collection, which features cashmere wovens, merino and jersey knitwear, jewellery, tracksuits, shirts, skirts and outerwear, as well as an umbrella, incorporates collaborations with labels and manufacturers they admire, including Vionnet, Ratti and Fulton. The Jasperwear collection is showcased in a series of interiors within the exhibition, including a trompe loeil shop window, a dressing room for visitors to try on and order items, new works by Atelier E.B and artists Markus Proschek and Calum Stirling.
The exhibition includes work by Atelier E.B, Tauba Auerbach, L. Frank Baum, Cecil Beaton, Rudolf Belling, Mary Blair, Anna Blessmann, Steven Campbell, Bonnie Cashin, Marc Camille Chaimowicz, Agatha Christie, Robert Couturier, Pasquale De Antonis, James Gardner, Zoë Ghertner, Michael Haynes, René Herbst, Lynn Hershman Leeson, Charles James, Allen Jones, Frederick Kiesler, Natasha Kroll, Käthe Kruse, Jeanne Lanvin, Beca Lipscombe, Lucy McKenzie, Philip Medicus, Lee Miller, Gene Moore, Sasha Morgenthaler., Vera Mukhina, Steff Norwood, Ben Perdue, Charles Pilkington Jackson, Markus Proschek, Josephine Pryde, Elizabeth Radcliffe, Virgil Rainer, Bernie Reid, Adel Rootstein, Martha Schön. Cora Scovil, Markus Selg, Basil Spence, Calum Stirling, Fred Wilson, Wols, and Yasumoto.