Silk, Gold and Light: An Art Lover's Guide to the Holy Cities of Makkah and Madinah
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Silk, Gold and Light: An Art Lover's Guide to the Holy Cities of Makkah and Madinah



Every year, the Kaaba in Makkah is dressed in a new cover. The kiswah, as it’s called, is made of black silk embroidered with verses of the Quran in gold and silver-plated thread, and it’s produced by a dedicated workshop in the city that has been making it since 1927. It’s one of the most-seen textiles on earth, and also one of the least discussed as a work of art.

Most pilgrims go to Makkah and Madinah for worship, and rightly so. But for anyone with an eye for craft, calligraphy and architecture, the holy cities are full of things to look at closely. You don’t need an expensive trip to see them, either. Even the cheapest umrah packages from uk agents sell will put you within reach of the Kaaba, the Prophet’s Mosque and several museums that reward a few spare hours. This guide is for pilgrims who want to see the art and architecture as well as perform the rituals.

What should art lovers look out for?

• The kiswah on the Kaaba, with its gold and silver calligraphy.

• The architecture of Masjid al-Haram, from Ottoman arcades to modern expansions.

• The Green Dome and giant shade umbrellas at the Prophet’s Mosque in Madinah.

• Museums such as the Exhibition of the Two Holy Mosques Architecture in Makkah.

• In winter 2027 to 2028, the Islamic Arts Biennale in Jeddah.

The kiswah: a textile with a century of craft behind it

The kiswah is made at the King Abdulaziz Complex for Holy Kaaba Kiswa in Makkah. According to published figures, each year’s cover uses hundreds of kilos of black-dyed natural silk, along with gold-plated silver thread and pure silver for the embroidery. The calligraphy band that runs around the upper part of the Kaaba, and the elaborate panel over the door, are among the finest examples of Islamic embroidery still produced today.

The cover is replaced once a year. Historically this happened on the Day of Arafah during Hajj, but in recent years the change has been made at the start of the Islamic new year, on the first of Muharram. If you look up from the courtyard, especially at night when the lighting catches the gold thread, the detail is extraordinary.

Reading the architecture of Masjid al-Haram

The Grand Mosque is a building of many periods. Close to the Kaaba, you can still see Ottoman-era arcades with their domes and columns, built centuries ago. Around them rise the large modern expansions of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries, with vast marble halls, escalators and new minarets. Walking from the older sections to the newer ones is a lesson in how a sacred space has grown to hold millions of people.

Look out for the calligraphy on the walls and gates, the patterned marble floors, and the way light falls through the arches at different times of day. After Fajr, when the sky is just beginning to brighten, is a particularly good time to see it.

Madinah: the Green Dome and the umbrellas

The Prophet’s Mosque in Madinah has its own visual signatures. The Green Dome, above the area that holds the Prophet’s grave, has been painted green since the nineteenth century and is one of the most recognised sights in the Muslim world.

In the courtyard, giant umbrellas open each morning to shade worshippers and fold away in the evening. Watching them open or close is one of those small moments that many pilgrims remember. Inside, the older Ottoman sections, with their painted domes and calligraphy, contrast with the bright modern halls around them.

Museums worth a visit

• Exhibition of the Two Holy Mosques Architecture, Makkah. A museum showing the history of the Grand Mosque and the Prophet’s Mosque, with old architectural pieces, doors and historic objects.

• Hira Cultural District, Makkah. At the foot of Jabal al-Nour, with an exhibition about the revelation of the Quran. A good choice if you can’t manage the climb to the Cave of Hira.

• Museums and cultural sites in Madinah. Madinah has several small museums about the history of the city and the Prophet’s Mosque. Ask your hotel or guide which are open during your stay.

Opening times change, so check locally before you go.

Why December 2027 is special for art lovers

Timing can add something extra. The Diriyah Biennale Foundation has announced that the third Islamic Arts Biennale will run from 1 November 2027 to 1 March 2028 at the Western Hajj Terminal of King Abdulaziz International Airport in Jeddah, the very terminal many pilgrims pass through.

That makes December Umrah Packages in 2027 a rare chance to combine a pilgrimage with one of the most important exhibitions of Islamic art in the world. Earlier editions brought together historic objects, manuscripts and contemporary works. If you’re flying into or out of Jeddah, consider adding a day for the Biennale. December is also one of the most comfortable months for weather in Makkah, though the Christmas period is busy and more expensive, so book early.

Practical tips for art-minded pilgrims

• Respect the rules on photography in the mosques and avoid filming other worshippers.

• Visit museums outside prayer times and during the cooler parts of the day.

• Bring a small notebook for sketching or writing down calligraphy that moves you.

• Choose a hotel close to the mosques, so you can return for quiet hours of looking and reflection.

• Remember the purpose of the trip. The art is there to serve the worship, not the other way round.

Before you go

British passport holders can apply for a Saudi visa online. You’ll need a passport with at least six months’ validity from your arrival date, a meningococcal ACWY vaccination given at least ten days before arrival, and an Umrah permit from the official Nusuk app. Book through a firm with an ATOL licence, check the GOV.UK travel advice for Saudi Arabia, and take out travel insurance with medical cover.

Frequently asked questions

What is the kiswah made of?

Black-dyed natural silk embroidered with gold-plated silver and silver thread, made at a dedicated complex in Makkah.

When is the kiswah changed?

Once a year. In recent years, it has been replaced on the first of Muharram, the start of the Islamic new year.

When is the Islamic Arts Biennale 2027?

From 1 November 2027 to 1 March 2028, at the Western Hajj Terminal in Jeddah.

Are there museums in Makkah?

Yes, including the Exhibition of the Two Holy Mosques Architecture and the Hira Cultural District.

Key takeaways

• The kiswah is a remarkable piece of living Islamic craft.

• Both holy mosques show centuries of architectural history.

• December 2027 trips can include the Islamic Arts Biennale in Jeddah.

• Keep worship first, and let the art deepen the experience.

Sources and further reading

Diriyah Biennale Foundation announcement on the Islamic Arts Biennale 2027; published information on the King Abdulaziz Complex for Holy Kaaba Kiswa; GOV.UK foreign travel advice for Saudi Arabia; the official Nusuk platform.


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Silk, Gold and Light: An Art Lover's Guide to the Holy Cities of Makkah and Madinah




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