DALLAS, TX.- One of fashions most closely watched new chapters made an early impression on the secondary market when a Chanel Cheetah Ponyhair Mini 25 Hobo Bag from Matthieu Blazys first Métiers dArt collection realized $30,000 in Heritage Auctions Oct. 1 Autumn Luxury Accessories Signature® Auction, doubling its high pre-auction estimate and helping lead the auction to a $2,613,209 total.
The handbags result was one of the biggest surprises of the auction and part of broader interest in Blazys newest Chanel designs. Other pieces from his collection also performed well, including a handwoven Leopard Print Tweed Mixed Fibers Maxi Souplissimo Flap Bag that brought $10,625 and a Black & White Ponyhair Small Chic Lady Shopping Bag that realized $7,500.
Matthieu Blazys ponyhair Chanel 25 Mini Hobo was the most pleasant surprise, says Diane DAmato, Heritage Auctions Director of Luxury Accessories, Private Sales & The Boutique. There was tremendous interest and active bidding, including from new bidders. Since the sale, weve already received inquiries from collectors interested in consigning pieces to future auctions.
Blazys designs arrive at a pivotal moment for Chanel. The acclaimed designer succeeded Virginie Viard as the houses artistic director, following a celebrated tenure at Bottega Veneta. His early Chanel collections have attracted considerable attention for the ways they reinterpret the houses familiar themes while emphasizing craftsmanship and individuality.
Chanel minaudières incredibly rare creations that blur the line between handbags and objets dart also saw some great results in the auction. One of the most fantastical, Chanels Gold Crystal & Enamel Birdcage minaudière, realized $17,500. Another standout was the Black Lucite, Enamel and Crystal Slot Machine minaudière that sold for $15,000.
While Chanel supplied the auctions biggest surprise, Hermès demonstrated the enduring strength of its rarest and most inventive designs.
An Hermès Shiny Black Porosus Crocodile & Ostrich Feather Folie Kelly Elan realized $71,875. The extremely limited release pairs the sleek proportions of the Kelly Elan with lustrous black crocodile and dramatic ostrich-feather detailing, transforming one of the houses familiar silhouettes into something decidedly theatrical.
This is Hermès at its most imaginative, DAmato says. The Folie Kelly Elan has all of the craftsmanship collectors expect from the house, but the feathers introduce movement, texture and an element of fantasy.
Collectors also competed for a 20cm Matte Black Porosus Crocodile Mini Kelly, reinforcing the continuing appeal of the Mini Kelly in rare exotic skins. That bag surpassed its high pre-auction estimate to achieve $53,750. Another black Hermès rarity, the Limited Edition 32cm So Black Box Kelly, brought $35,000. Created during Jean Paul Gaultiers tenure at Hermès, the coveted So Black collection is celebrated for its monochromatic treatment, pairing black leather with matte black PVD-coated hardware.
Colorful exotics performed strongly as well. An Hermès Shiny Cactus Alligator Kelly Pochette realized $40,000, demonstrating that collector interest extends from dramatic limited editions to exceptional examples of the houses most desirable exotic leathers.
The Hermès results demonstrate something we see consistently among sophisticated collectors, DAmato says. They respond to rarity, craftsmanship and distinctive design. But what stood out throughout the auction was the energy. We saw established collectors competing for the houses they have followed for years, while new bidders brought fresh interest to the sale. That combination made for an exciting auction.