Jane Birkin-signed Hermès Birkin among standout handbags in Heritage sale
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Jane Birkin-signed Hermès Birkin among standout handbags in Heritage sale
Hermès 35cm Bleu Marine Courchevel Leather Birkin Bag with Gold Hardware, Inscribed and Signed Twice by Jane Birkin.



DALLAS, TX.- From an Hermès Birkin signed by Jane Birkin herself to dazzling creations in sterling silver and crocodile, Heritage’s April 23 Spring Luxury Accessories Signature® Auction brings together some of the world’s most coveted handbags.

Among the lots is one of the rarest handbags ever to come to auction: a Bleu Marine Courchevel Leather Birkin twice signed by the iconic bag’s namesake. The first Birkin was originally created 45 years ago after the British singer and actress Jane Birkin found herself seated next to the artistic director of Hermès, Jean-Louis Dumas, on a flight from Paris to London. As Birkin tried to secure her belongings in the overhead compartment, everything inside her wicker basket spilled onto Dumas’ lap. Frustrated with the small bags of the time, she told Dumas she couldn’t find a fashionable leather handbag large enough for her liking. Dumas suggested she needed a bag with pockets, to which Birkin replied that if Hermès made one, she would buy it.

Intrigued by his seatmate’s sense of style and practicality, Dumas took an airplane sickness bag and sketched a design for the first Birkin. In 1985, Hermès presented Jane Birkin with the spacious and sophisticated bag she inspired and asked her permission to name it after her.

While the Bleu Marine Birkin is not the first Birkin created, its provenance is undeniably special. Signed twice by Birkin for Mrs. Midori Senga — a longtime friend who, along with her husband, owned the Agnes Hotel in Tokyo, Birkin’s favorite place to stay when visiting the city — the bag carries deeply personal inscriptions. She signed the front interior wall, above the slip pocket, “Midori Your Friend Jane” in white and “Midori Jane” on the rear interior pocket in silver. Accompanying the bag is an inscribed program from Birkin’s 2013 Tokyo concert.

Mrs. Senga confirms what has long been known about Jane Birkin: She believed a bag was meant to be used rather than displayed. She told Mrs. Senga not to worry about signs of wear and, to prove her point, did what most collectors would never dream of doing — she stepped on the bag, explaining it softened the leather.

Also featured in the auction is the highly sought-after Hermès 30cm Matte White Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Birkin, revered for its rarity and the meticulous hand-dyeing process that produces its signature ombre coloration. A masterwork of craftsmanship, the exquisite creation is fashioned from the hide of the Niloticus crocodile, whose scales are large and symmetrical, ensuring meticulous uniformity.

Another standout offering is the Hermès Limited Edition Argent Sterling Silver Kellymorphose Sac Bijou Chaine Bag, a stunning work of haute bijouterie that transforms the iconic Kelly silhouette into a wearable sculpture. The piece is not only ethereal jewelry, but also a fully realized miniature Kelly handcrafted entirely of sterling silver, suspended from a fine chain. The detachable chain allows it to be worn as a necklace, a cross-body minaudière, a micro-bag or bag charm.

Collectors will also find the legendary Hermès Limited Edition 35cm So Black Box Calf Kelly Retourne Bag, designed by Jean Paul Gaultier for his final runway show and widely considered one of the most important and elusive handbags ever created. Considered Gaultier’s most significant contribution to Hermès, the So Black collection distinguished itself by coating all metal hardware, including buckles, locks and keys, in black PVD, creating a bold monochromatic aesthetic. Considered the Holy Grail of luxury handbags, the So Black collection rivals the Himalaya, not only in terms of collectability and scarcity, but in its understated elegance and legendary status.

“This auction represents the pinnacle of luxury collecting,” says Diane D’Amato, Heritage Auctions’ Director of Luxury Accessories, Private Sales & The Boutique. “From historically significant pieces to the rarest limited editions, it brings together pieces that transcend fashion and enter the realm of cultural artifacts.”

Additional highlights include whimsical designs such as the Hermès Anate Fringe Birkin Sellier, another rare collector’s piece known for its avant-garde design and hand-woven fringe, and the Hermès Matte Black Porosus Crocodile & Ostrich Feather Folie Kelly Elan. The Kelly Elan Folie is a reimagination of the classic Kelly Elan silhouette embellished with ostrich feather detailing. The whimsy continues in the auction’s selection of eye-catching Chanel creations, including the Gold-Tone Metal & Strass Crystal Birdcage minaudière, the Black Lucite No. 5 Perfume Bottle minaudière, the Green Lucite Boy Brick Lego minaudière and the Hammered Gold Bullion Bar minaudière.

The auction also features an impressive selection of Hermès Mini Kellys in exotic skins and rare finishes. The fabulous 20cm Matte Black Porosus Crocodile Mini Kelly is crafted from Australian saltwater crocodiles, known for their small, symmetrical scales and considered to be the finest in the exotic hierarchy. There’s also the sublime 20cm Metallic Argent Chevre Chamkilight Leather Mini Kelly, which requires a specialized tanning process to create the subtle metallic finish. Other exceptional Mini Kellys on offer include versions crafted from Matte Vert D’eau Alligator, Shiny Vert Cypress Alligator, Matte Bougainvillier Alligator and studded Black Box Calf Leather.

Other highlights include:

• Hermès 18cm Ombre Salvator Lizard Mini Constance Bag

• Hermès 30cm Shiny Bleu Electrique Niloticus Crocodile Birkin Bag

• Hermès 25cm Matte Vert D’eau Alligator Birkin Bag

• Hermès Limited Edition 25cm Nata, Chai, Cuivre, Lime and Mauve Sylvestre Swift Leather Colormatic Kelly Retourne Bag

• Hermès Violet Niloticus Lizard Kelly Pochette

• Hermès 25cm Mauve Sylvestre Epsom Leather Kelly Sellier Bag

• Hermès 18cm Shiny Vert Fonce Alligator Mini Constance Bag










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