After honouring Elisabeth de Senneville, an essential figure in fashion in July 2016, the creator of a world-recognised brand will be honoured during the Fashion Arts auction organised by Artcurial
on 20th June 2017, preceding Paris Haute Couture fashion week. Thanks to three remarkable collections, the sale will offer an in depth glimpse into the various creative expressions of the early days of maison Christian Dior (haute-Couture, jewellery, advertising). The models proposed in the auction create a time capsule, delving into the archives of the avenue Montaigne label, created 70 years ago and which has ceaselessly embodied French elegance.
A set of souvenirs from the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, photographs by Françoise Huguier as well as the hat worn by Héléne Rochas at the surrealist dinner organised by Marie-Hélène de Rothschild in 1972, complement the extraordinary catalogue of this sale which gathers together a part of the European Gotha from the beginning of the twentieth century.
Created in 2016 under the impetus of Penelope Blanckaert, the Artcurial Hermes Vintage & Fashion Arts Department has for aim to promote fashion arts on the international art market. Particularly prized by museum institutions and international collectors, the most emblematic historical pieces regularly reach record highs at auction. Artcurial wishes to discover this new specialty with a rare and original selection celebrating the big names as well as forgotten artists, in this art form so linked to Paris.
« This second sale dedicated to Fashion Arts illustrates our desire to broaden the Fashion spectrum off the beaten track. The opportunity to (re)discover 20th century fashion through provenances, stories and talents. 2017 is also the opportunity for Artcurial to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Maison Dior through the dispersion of the Madoz archives or illustrations by the brilliant Jacques Darnel» --Pénélope Blanckaert, Director, Hermès Vintage & Fashion Arts department, Artcurial
70 years, 70 models
From 1948 to 1975, the maison Henriette Madoz, in Lyon, was the exclusive Christian Dior representative for the Ain, Drôme, Isère, Loire and Rhône departments. Madame Madoz and her husband, Monsieur Alfred Madoz, traveled to the Christian Dior presentations at avenue Montaigne, selecting the Haute Couture patterns that would dress their luxurious clientele. Once the fabric orders done, the clothes were built in the maison Madoz workshops, located 16 place Bellecour.
The archives of this institution will be put up for auctions. Mostly dating from the first years of the maison Dior, models are signed by Christian Dior, Yves-Mathieu Saint-Laurent or Marc Bohan. Creativity and innovation are represented in the Autriche faille and velvet evening gown, estimate : 2,500 4,500 / $2,670 4,805 , so representative of the New Look ; or the Djebel outfit, created by Yves-Mathieu Saint-Laurent for Christian Dior, composed of a wool jacket and a dress, estimate: 700 900 / $748 961.
Heribert & Margarete Händel Collection
Couture jewellery rapidly appeared to sublimate creations imagined by the maison Christian Dior. Artcurial offers a rediscovery of the most beautiful creations from the Henkel & Gross workshops, created in the 1960s for the avenue Montaigne designer, through 45 metal, rhinestone and crystal pieces. These pieces all compete in luxury and glamour, such as this elegant metal, blue rhinestone and crystal necklace, estimate 350 550 / $373 587 or a pair of simile diamond rhinestone pendant earrings, estimate 150 250 / 160 267. A veritable institution of recognised expertise, the Henkel & Gross workshops brought life to the maison Christian Dior creations for more than fifty years.
Jacques Darnel Illustrator for Christian Dior
An artist of great repute, Jacques Darnel shared the exclusivity of Creations Advertising for the maison Dior with René Gruau for a long time.
While he is given free rein, Jacques Darnel cannot represent women. He comes up with a solution by using the Stockman manikin which symbolises the ideal Christian Dior silhouette.
In later years, Jacques Darnel broadens his client pool, working for live act (les Folies Bergères, Roland Petit), companies such as Air France or the silver screen, with, for example, the poster for the 1975 Louis Malle film « Vie Privée »with Brigitte Bardot, estimate 1,000 2,000 / $1,065 2,132.
The second Fashion Arts auction manifests Artcurials desire to broaden the spectrum for fashion collectors : Duchess of Windsor souvenirs, surrealist hat worn by Hélène Rochas, flash-back on photographer Françoise Huguier. An opportunity to (re)discover 20th century fashion through provenance, history and talents.
Françoise Huguier Photographs
Françoise Huguier, famous for her backstage shots of fashion shows, captured the euphoria and the intimate moments of major players of the fashion world. A series of photographs depicting designer highlights is offered for auction. Here we find Yves Saint Laurent surrounded by his favourite models in an exceptional limited edition print, estimate : 1,500 3,500 / $1,596 3,723 or a poetic still life from 1987 representing Naomi Campbells empty bed at Azzedine Alaïas, estimate 1,500 3,500 / $1,596 3,723.
Duchesse de Windsor souvenirs
The daily life of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor is revealed through fifty of their personal belongings, such as this vermilion and silver Cartier cigarette case, circa 1955, engraved with Wallis Simpsons mark and Edward the 7th motto, estimate : 800 1,200 / $853 1,279. A large selection of portraits and photographs are also included in the sale, such as an oil on canvas of the Duchess of Windsor, signed by E. Martin, estimate 300 500 / $320 533.
Hélène Rochas and the surrealist dinner
Another curiosity included in this sale is an extravagant headdress worn by Hélène Rochas during the famous surrealist dinner held by Marie-Hélène de Rothschild in 1972, during which the entire Gotha outdid themselves in originality and eccentricity. The hat, worn by Hélène Rochas, crafted by Hector Pascal is a marvel of creativity and fantasy, which will surely garner enthusiasm and passion amongst collectors. Its estimate is 2,000 3,000/ $2,131 3,197