|The First Art Newspaper on the Net
||Established in 1996
|| Thursday, January 19, 2017
|A history of couture in 100 dresses in "Paris Haute Couture" at Hotel de Ville in Paris|
An employee at the Galliera museum works on a creation for the exhibition "Paris Haute Couture" which will take place at the Hotel de Ville (town hall) in Paris. Closed for restorations the Galliera museum organises exhibitions in different places before its re-opening in September 2013. AFP PHOTO / MARTIN BUREAU.
By: Helen Rowe
PARIS (AFP).- From Worth and Balenciaga to Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior and John Galliano, a landmark exhibition due to open in Paris on Saturday traces the history of haute couture through some of the most exquisite dresses ever made.
The exhibition for the first time gathers more than 100 iconic creations from 150 years of fashion accompanied by archive photographs and drawings.
The story begins with an 1895 high-necked tea dress in green velvet and silk by the man considered the father of haute couture, Briton Charles Frederick Worth.
Worth, from Lincolnshire in eastern England, opened for business in central Paris in 1858 at 7, Rue de la Paix; others followed and by 1911 the Paris Haute Couture Association had been formed.
At an exhibition of decorative arts held in the French capital in 1925, 75 couture houses were represented.
Highlights from the 1920s and 1930s include Jeanne Lanvin's 1929 black taffeta "Bel Oiseau" (Beautiful bird) dress and a 1932 ivory silk robe by Madeleine Vionnet so timeless it could have been made yesterday.
By 1930, economic circumstances forced a contraction with collections slimmed down from a staggering 400 designs to 100, according to exhibition curator Olivier Saillard, director of Paris's Galliera fashion museum.
"They (the fashion houses) had already seen the disappearance -- as a result of the First World War -- of their aristocratic customers who used to come to Paris a lot," he said.
Nevertheless, in 1935, Chanel alone was employing 4,000 workers to make 28,000 pieces a year.
World War II also hit the industry and in 1945 the number of designs per collection was again reduced to 75.
In 1947, Christian Dior opened his own couture house, followed in 1952 by Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Cardin. By 1953, there were some 59 couture houses.
For Saillard, the 1930s were the stylistic "golden age" of haute couture for which Paris is famed, along with the 1950s.
Among the creations representing this charmed fashion decade is "Palmyre", a strapless Christian Dior embroidered evening dress.
"All designers go back to the 1950s, fashion has not really changed," said Saillard.
In 1961, Yves Saint Laurent founded his own fashion house and presented his first collection the following year.
By 1973, however, the number of houses was down to 25, employing 3,120 people, and by 1990 that figure was a mere 928.
Today around 20 houses are involved in haute couture, organising shows twice yearly in January and July, with about a dozen of those belonging to the haute couture association and able to meet its strict criteria such as the amount of work done in house by hand.
The entire industry is based on an estimated several hundred customers worldwide, although designers report that numbers are rising due to new customers from newly-rich parts of the world such as China, Russia and Brazil.
The exhibition brings the Paris couture story into the modern era with a figure-hugging beige lycra dress by Alaia from 1990 and a 2008 purple satin ball gown by John Galliano for Christian Dior.
Visitors can judge for themselves how sustainable couture is in the 21st century, but Saillard says he finds it reassuring that "there are not only houses such as Dior and Chanel but also (Jean Paul) Gaultier where younger people work in this heritage craft and which try to safeguard the skills".
Meanwhile, the number of people employed in the wider fashion world is today estimated at 60,000 in Paris alone.
"Paris Haute Couture" runs until July 6 at the capital's Hotel de Ville. Admission is free.
© 1994-2013 Agence France-Presse
March 1, 2013
Chinese artists ink new future for 1,000 year art in new exhibiion at Christie's in New York
Pierre Soulages' first solo museum exhibition in Italy opens at Villa Medici in Rome
Hammer Galleries to present Objects In Space: Léger, Miró, and Calder at TEFAF Maastricht
Frist Center presents exhibition of ancient American art from the John Bourne Collection
CGC 6.5 Detective Comics #27 reigns supreme at Heritage Auctions comics event
A history of couture in 100 dresses in "Paris Haute Couture" at Hotel de Ville in Paris
Andy Warhol's rare print, Sleep, on view for the first time at the National Gallery of Canada
Retrospective at the ZKM / Media Museum gives an overview of the artistic works of Henry Flynt
Sotheby's Hong Kong Important Watches Spring Sale 2013 presents magnificent clocks
"In the Circle of Hans Hofmann: Works from the Hannan Art Collection" on view at Betty Krulik Fine Art, Ltd
Billionaires lured by Masriadi's Warrior at new London art fair that includes 122 dealers from 31 countries
The San Francisco Arts Commission and Heyday bring 80 years of cultural innovation to life in new book
Eleven contemporary artists explore the emotions of love at the Art Gallery of New South Wales
Erarta Galleries London opens exhibition by celebrated book designer and illustrator David Plaksin
Paul Manoguerra hired as new Director, Curator of Gonzaga's Jundt Art Museum
Zefrey Throwell's Panic in the Chalk Cave opens at Gasser Grunert
Final countdown underway to South Florida's premier collector car auction
Major exhibition of the works of the Israeli-French artist Absalon opens at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art
The Christopher Henry Gallery opens first solo exhibition of New York-based artist Allison Maletz
Most Popular Last Seven Days
1.- After decades of slights, Cuban-American artist Carmen Herrera tastes fame at 101
2.- Gallery 19C rediscovers a lost Realist treasure by Alphonse Legros
3.- France blocks sale of rare Leonardo Da Vinci painting 'Saint Sebastian'
4.- New exhibition at the National Museum puts select works of art under a microscope
5.- Getty Museum presents first major exhibition on 18th century artist Edme Bouchardon
6.- Rarely seen silkscreen prints by Jacob Lawrence on view at the Phillips Collection
7.- Fraenkel Gallery debuts of new, large-scale photographs by British artist Richard Learoyd
8.- Kurdish-Arab forces seize strategic Syria citadel from IS
9.- Paris show of masterpieces unseen in West is smash hit
10.- Award-winning Indian actor Om Puri dies of heart attack
Museums, Exhibits, Artists, Milestones, Digital Art, Architecture, Photography,
Photographers, Special Photos, Special Reports, Featured Stories, Auctions, Art Fairs,
Anecdotes, Art Quiz, Education, Mythology, 3D Images, Last Week, .
|Royalville Communications, Inc|
Tell a Friend
Dear User, please complete the form below in order to recommend the Artdaily newsletter to someone you know.
Please complete all fields marked *.