The First Art Newspaper on the Net   Established in 1996 United States Monday, September 23, 2019

Hamiltons Gallery exhibits two rare portfolios by Richard Avedon
Stephanie Seymour, English Auxiliary Transport Services uniform, New York, April 1995. © The Richard Avedon Foundation.

LONDON.- To mark Hamiltons Gallery being appointed an official representative of The Richard Avedon Foundation in the UK, Hamiltons is presenting Richard Avedon: Portfolios from 9 September to 13 November 2019. Throughout his 60-year career, the photographer Richard Avedon created only a handful of portfolios which he presented as complete bodies of work meant to be displayed as one group of photographs. Hamiltons is exhibiting two of these rare portfolios, La Passante du Siècle and Made in France, marking the first time either portfolio has been exhibited in its entirety.

Made in France is a portfolio by chance. It was assembled after Avedon’s re-discovery of an intact group of 27 of his original engraver prints from the glory years that were 1950s Harper’s Bazaar. During this time Avedon became an ascendant force at the magazine and travelled to Paris twice a year to report on the post-war French couture collections. Out of thousands of Avedon’s (or any photographer’s) published fashion photographs from this period, they are among the few survivors, mounted to their original boards, each with their unique stamps (“Made in France”), mark-ups, printing notes, and captions as they were to appear in the all-important fall issues. These images not only record the couture of the time, but document the process by which the magazine was assembled under Avedon’s “trinity” of European-born American colleagues – Carmel Snow, Diana Vreeland, and Alexey Brodovitch.

In the 1950s, Dior, Balmain, Lanvin, Ricci, Grès, Patou were zealously guarded houses in the Paris-based Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and to this day are active brands which represent French identity on the contemporary stage. Avedon infused these houses’ revolutionary designs with his expansive American sensibility of freedom and female power, and through the legendary models that were Dorian Leigh, Suzy Parker, Carmen Dell’Orefice, Audrey Hepburn, Dovima and China Machado (the first model of colour to appear in an American fashion magazine), global fashion was born.

Made in France represents the apotheosis of Avedon’s first 20 years as a fashion photographer, and a synthesis of cultures that reshuffled the post-war order and resonates deeply to this day. The pictures were published in book form in 2001, with an essay by Judith Thurman.

By the late 1980s, Avedon felt constricted by American fashion magazines, which he believed had become more dedicated to marketing than artistic achievement. His subsequent fashion work only appeared in The New Yorker in the United States, and in Egoïste, a French journal of photography and culture edited (advertisements and all) by Nicole Wisniak. Avedon described Egoïste as the “only magazine in the world to give completely free expression.”

At about the same time that Avedon rediscovered his earlier Made In France photographs taken in the 1950s, he and Wisniak embarked on the creation of a new portfolio of French designs that would capture the sweep of 20th century women’s fashion, and explicate the complicated evolution of female identity over the course of 100 years. Mixing contemporary and vintage clothing borrowed from various collections, Avedon photographed Stephanie Seymour, a highly expressive model in the tradition of Dorian Leigh, as she would have appeared across time.

Having photographed fashion for 50 years, Avedon understood historical processes and was able to succinctly analyse the concurrent linear and cyclical nature of expression through photography and design. How the hyper-femininity of the early 1900s would re-emerge in altered formats in the 1950s and again in the 1980s. The liberation from the traditionally feminine, which so ardently marked the decade following 1910 (with designers such as Poiret and Fortuny) would not be seen again until the 1960s and get reaffirmed once again in the last years of the 20th century by Comme des Garçons. The theatrical minimalism of the 1920s is echoed by the eternal Chanel in the 1990s. And the dark masculinity of the 1930s and 1940s (which was also indelibly marked by the “uniform” of war) would inspire the decade of the 1970s and Yves Saint Laurent, when “le smoking” came to dominate the global scene.

The finished portfolio of 20 images was titled La Passante du Siècle and published in Egoïste No. 13 in 1996. Avedon also printed and signed a small portfolio of 3 at that time.

American photographer Richard Avedon was an eminent chronicler of the second half of the 20th century. His work encompasses an unusually wide range of subjects: The Civil Rights movement, French fashions, anti-Vietnam war protestors, the Chicago Seven, the Warhol Factory and the artistic and political leadership of America. He photographed Napalm victims, the Mission Council in Vietnam, working class men and women in the American West and the fall of the Berlin Wall. As of 2001, there have been ten publications and twenty-three one-man exhibitions in major world museums. From 1945 to 1965, Avedon was on the staff of Harper’s Bazaar; from 1966 to 1986 on Vogue; and in 1992 he became the first staff photographer of The New Yorker magazine. On the morning of October 1st, 2004, Avedon suffered a cerebral hemorrhage and died at the Methodist Hospital in San Antonio, Texas while working on “Democracy”, a portfolio of photographs for The New Yorker magazine.

Today's News

September 11, 2019

Robert Frank, photographer of America's underbelly, dead at 94

Christie's France to offer masterpieces from Africa, Oceania and North America

Ugo Rondinone & Sotheby's to present 'Stop Bladder Cancer' as part of the Contemporary Curated Auction

Painting by Joseph Anton Koch returns to the Städel

Spectacular stained-glass windows from the Whitney Museum of American Art's original home rediscovered

Tokyo Chuo Auction launches new logo in celebration of a new milestone

Christie's announces nearly 300 works to be offered in two live auctions

Design Museum announces Beazley Designs of the Year nominees

Hamiltons Gallery exhibits two rare portfolios by Richard Avedon

Sculpture and abstraction shines in October 8 sale of African-American Fine Art

albertz benda opens fall season with exhibition of works by Conrad Egyir & Patrick Quarm

National Portrait Gallery celebrates first season of new podcast, "Portraits"

A survey of William Bailey's work includes some of his finest and rarely exhibited paintings

Dennis Oppenheim, Frank Lloyd Wright among artists featured in Heritage Auctions' Design Auction

Marie Selby Botanical Gardens retires long-term debt with help from their Living Museum model

MOCA North Miami opens South Florida Cultural Consortium Exhibition

Artists contribute to charity auction at Bonhams in aid of National Saturday Club

Elephant West hosts a series of adventurous and immersive installations

Annet Gelink Gallery opens an exhibition of works by Anders Dickson

The Fundació Joan Miró opens the photography exhibition Cunningham, Cage & Tudor (Sitges, 1966)

Tarik Kiswanson's second solo exhibition with Almine Rech opens in Paris

'Listen to the Hum': Alice Black opens a group exhibition

The Fahey/Klein Gallery opens a solo exhibition of works by photographer Paolo Roversi

Most Popular Last Seven Days

1.- Holocaust 'masterpiece' causes uproar at Venice film festival

2.- To be unveiled at Sotheby's: One of the greatest collections of Orientalist paintings ever assembled

3.- Bender Gallery features paintings by up and coming Chicago artist Michael Hedges

4.- Lévy Gorvy exhibits new and historic works by French master in his centenary year

5.- Artificial Intelligence as good as Mahler? Austrian orchestra performs symphony with twist

6.- Fascinating new exhibition explores enduring artistic bond between Scotland and Italy

7.- Exhibition explores the process of Japanese-style woodblock production

8.- Robert Frank, photographer of America's underbelly, dead at 94

9.- The truth behind the legend of patriot Paul Revere revealed in a new exhibition at New-York Historical Society

10.- Hitler bust found in cellar of French Senate

Museums, Exhibits, Artists, Milestones, Digital Art, Architecture, Photography,
Photographers, Special Photos, Special Reports, Featured Stories, Auctions, Art Fairs,
Anecdotes, Art Quiz, Education, Mythology, 3D Images, Last Week, .


Ignacio Villarreal
(1941 - 2019)
Editor & Publisher: Jose Villarreal
Art Director: Juan José Sepúlveda Ramírez

Royalville Communications, Inc
Founder's Site. The most varied versions
of this beautiful prayer.
to a Mexican poet.

The First Art Newspaper on the Net. The Best Versions Of Ave Maria Song Junco de la Vega Site Ignacio Villarreal Site
Tell a Friend
Dear User, please complete the form below in order to recommend the Artdaily newsletter to someone you know.
Please complete all fields marked *.
Sending Mail
Sending Successful