On May 4th, Artcurial
will host its Spring Fashion Arts in two chapters: the returning Hermès Vintage will begin at 10:30 am including approximately 200 lots, followed by Fashion Arts from 1:30 pm including 300 lots. Iconic Must-have or collector accessories, signed by Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Bottega Veneta will pave the way for Haute-Couture and Prêt-à-porter names from the 1930s to our time.
Following the Japanese auction held this autumn, Pénélope Blanckaert, director of the Hermès Vintage & Fashion Arts Department has selected a range of 1960s and 70s outfits, through the works for Norwegian designer Per Spook, artistic director for maison Louis Féraud before creating his eponymous brand in 1977.
« Our previous auction in 2016 was dedicated to the archives of Elisabeth de Senneville. This time, we highlight the creations of Per Spook. It is always a pleasure for us to (re)discover, forty years later, the often-overlooked work of a talented designer whose style remains up to date, even today. The sobriety of his cuts and his sense of couture detail does not deter from the discrete whimsy which illuminates his creations, to our greatest delight. » --Pénélope Blanckaert, Director Hermès vintage & Fashion Arts, Artcurial Department
This essential event for both enthusiasts and international collectors will carry approximately 200 lots grouped into 4 of the 15 Hermès universes: Leather, Jewellery & Timekeeping, Homeware and fashion.
Kelly, Birkin, Constance and Evelyne bags will share the spotlight with other more eclectic items such as the Pippa travel desk and stool set by Rena Dumas (Estimate: 2,500 4,500 / $3,100 5,580) or a black crocodile and scarlet velvet jewellery travel case, estimate 3,000 5,000 / $3,720 6,198.
The second auction will begin with the Accessories chapter introducing luggage and travel chests by Louis Vuitton alongside rare bags such as a white and silver python Lady Dior Edition Limitée (2013) estimate between 2,000 and 4,000 or 2,480 and $4,960, the Camera Messenger by Louis Vuitton X Cindy Sherman (Autumn-winter 2014, limited edition series celebrating the 120th anniversary of the Monogram) estimate between 1,200 and 2,200, or $1490 and $2,728 and some Chanel Timeless in exotic skins such as the Jumbo model in purple alligator (Estimate : 8,000 12,000 / $9,920 14,882).
Immutable in his requirements for suitability and comfort as well as his sense of style, Per Spook conquered his clients who remained faithful to him. For this reason, the entire collection of garments at this auction all comes from the same collection, dating from the 1960s to the mid 1980s.
Awarded the Dé dOr on two occasions in 1979 and 1993, Per Spook, faithful to his Nordic origins, spanned three decades imagining a warm haute-couture fashion atmosphere working with simple styles and comfortable materials.
This auction is the opportunity to pay tribute to his work and to reveal him to younger generations, stylists or devotees.
People in the know can therefore purchase a Louis Féraud Haute Couture dress, circa 1970, decorated with ornate embroideries from latelier Vermont and matching jacket at an estimate of 300 500 or $372 620 (lot of four outfits) or a Per Spook Haute Couture coat circa 1978, in wool and red mohair knit, estimate 250 450 or $310 558 (lot of 3 coats).
Two Poster Dress by Harry Gordon (1968) and two The Ritva Man pull-overs by Mike Ross from the same period, one with an embroidered motif inset representing a David Hockney piece will be included amongst Haute Couture by Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Dessès, Lucien Lelong, Paco Rabanne, Christian Dior and many more
Fans of fashions from the 1930s will also be able to go home with fabulous sets of sketches by maison Callot Surs and by Elsa Schiaparelli