|The First Art Newspaper on the Net
||Established in 1996
|| Tuesday, May 30, 2017
|It Bag, Watch Out: France's Duvelleroy Folding Fan is Back|
Raphaelle de Panafieu, left, and Eloise Gilles, co-owners of Duvelleroy fan maker, pose with some of their creations. Founded in 1827 by Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy, the house was among the most prestigious of the French capital's plethora of fan-makers, with a boutique on the Rue de la Paix and clients including Britain's Queen Victoria and a host of other European royals. AP Photo/Remy de la Mauviniere.
PARIS (AP).- Forget Balenciaga's "Giant City" and the other luxury purses that vie for the title of "It Bag" of the moment. If two young Parisian fashionistas have their way, next season's must-have accessory might just be a relic resurrected from a bygone age the folding fan.
Eloise Gilles and Raphaelle de Panafieu left their jobs in fashion and invested their savings to rescue one of Paris' last remaining fan makers, the long-dormant house of Duvelleroy.
Their first collection 12 exquisite models concocted by hand from traditional fabrics like silk and feathers and state-of-the-art materials like carbon fiber is to make its retail debut later this month.
"Fans are not only elegant and feminine but they're also super practical. Whenever I go out, to parties, to restaurants and especially to clubs, I always have mine," said Panafieu, a 28-year-old who says folding fans have been her trademark ever since her father brought her one from Asia when she was a kid.
Panafieu's quirky accessory of choice became her job after she met Gilles a few years ago and the two decided to invest in a fan-making house. They discovered Duvelleroy, among the few remaining survivors of France's world-famous fan-making industry, and pooled their savings to buy the house from owner Michel Maignan, a retired auctioneer.
Two years ago, the two quit their jobs Panafieu's in marketing at a chic Paris women's clothing label and Gilles' as a brand consultant for French luxury labels to throw themselves into resurrecting the house.
Founded in 1827 by Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy, it was long considered among France's most prestigious fan makers, with a boutique on the tony rue de la Paix and clients including Britain's Queen Victoria and other European royals. The house was passed down through the Duvelleroy family until World War II, when Maignan's grandfather bought them out.
The postwar period was the beginning of the end for fan-makers, as women began to busy their hands with cigarettes, and nearly all of the French capital's fan houses were forced to shutter.
Duvelleroy diversified branching out into other small accessories and eventually fan repair and outlived its contemporaries. But it has been largely dormant for decades.
Gilles and Panafieu plunged into the Duvelleroy archive, nearly two centuries worth of fan history, which Maignan had meticulously preserved in an attic.
"It was incredible. There were fans covered in sequins so tiny you couldn't get a modern needle through them and others made from the feathers of birds that are now extinct," said Gilles.
Still, the pair wasn't aiming to replicate the styles that had cemented Duvelleroy's reputation for excellence in the 19th century.
"We wanted something really contemporary nothing that would look like a museum piece," said Gilles. The pair hired stylists to help design their debut collection, which goes on sale in late August at Paris' upscale Franck and Fils department store.
The result: 12 models that combine just the right dose of romantic, 19th century elegance with clean-cut contemporary practicality.
In sequin-studded silk mousseline, the "Chiffon" is mounted on frames made of carbon fiber, an ultra-lightweight polymer used in jets and sports cars. The "Coral" combines dramatic red silk with a frame in an early plastic made from milk protein and formaldehyde. The "Bird of the Night" a concoction of silk mousseline and deep purple ostrich feathers, mounted on a mother-of-pearl frame is a shrunken variation on the massive feather fans that were all the rage in the 1800s.
Each fan requires at least 20 hours of painstaking labor, and some models, like the "Bird of the Night," need much more than that. To make the process economically viable, Gilles and Panafieu broke down the production, seeking out specialized artisans throughout France and Italy who each handle a specific task.
A "plisseur," or pleater who normally works for Paris haute couture houses starches and folds the silk just so. An embroiderer bedazzles it with sequins, while another artisan applies designs in gold, silver and copper foil.
Each fan passes through the hands of at least four artisans before winding up in the workshop of a master fan maker in the south of France, who assembles the parts. They say that's much cheaper than having one person go through each separate step.
But the prices remain high. The line starts at euro490 ($645) for the simplest model and climbs to euro4,500 for the feathery ones.
"It does seem expensive, but when you compare it to other luxury items, like nice handbags of jewelry, it's in that same range," Gilles said.
In addition to their own line, she and Panafieu hope to manufacture fans for fashion labels. A collaborative line between Duvelleroy and zany French designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac known for his colorful, kitschy clothes is coming out in February, Gilles said. They'd also love to work with Chanel, whose celebrity designer Karl Lagerfeld was rarely seen without a folding fan in the 1980s.
"This whole thing is super exciting for us," said Panafieu. "We put all our money and all our hopes into this project and it's amazing to see it take off."
Copyright 2010 The Associated Press.
August 12, 2010
More than a Dozen Multi-Million Dollar Cars Lead RM's Silver Anniversary Monterey Sale
'Lucy' Species Used Stone Tools, Fossil Study by California Academy of Sciences Says
Mumbai's Taj Hotel Reopens Sunday After 2008 Attacks
MoMA Launches Free iPhone App, Now Available on App Store
Christina Aguilera Lends Her Voice to Support the Arts
Money Fair in Boston Showcases $100,000 Bills, Rare Coins
Renowned International Artists to Display New Works at Beyond/In Western New York
Fundació Antoni Tàpies Presents a New Selection of Works from the Collection
Very Original Features: Is this United Kingdom's Oldest Home?
Martin Luther has Wittenberg, Germany in a Stir 500 Years On
Smithsonian Extends Chance to Glimpse Rare Blue Diamond
Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis Appoints Dominic Molon as Chief Curator
Two Tableaux Vivants After Regent Portraits by Jan de Bray
Work Begins on Deluxe 17,000-Square-Foot Addition to Dan Morphy Auctions Gallery
It Bag, Watch Out: France's Duvelleroy Folding Fan is Back
Hannah Eidinow's New Street Theatre Commission for the Vauxhall Collective Comes to Edinburgh
Winslow Homer Classic Portrait Featured in American Treasures Stamp Series
SFMOMA to Present Exposed: Voyeurism, Surveillance and The Camera Since 1870
Relic from Darwin's Epic Beagle Voyage for Sale at Bonhams
Rare Communion Silver Bought for Birmingham
Asia's Most Sought after Wine in Pristine Condition with Perfect Provenance
Artistic Explorations by 22 Artists at Benrimon Contemporary
Clare Twomey's First Solo Exhibition in the United States Will Be at The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art
Most Popular Last Seven Days
1.- Art community remains divided over Caravaggio found in French attic
2.- Stedelijk Museum presents a snapshot of Rineke Dijkstra's photographic and video work
3.- Hillwood Estate, Museum & Gardens mourns death of Dina Merrill
4.- Exhibition of new paintings by Gerhard Richter opens at Albertinum in Dresden
5.- 18th-century French paintings from across America on view at National Gallery of Art
6.- Major retrospective of Robert Rauschenberg opens at the Museum of Modern Art
7.- Canaletto exhibition reunites two of the Venetian master's greatest series of paintings
8.- King Tutankhamun's bed, chariot paraded through Cairo to new home
9.- Junk sale diamond ring bought for £10 worth a fortune
10.- Exhibition sheds light on one of the most pressing issues of the 21st century: What will we eat in the future?
Museums, Exhibits, Artists, Milestones, Digital Art, Architecture, Photography,
Photographers, Special Photos, Special Reports, Featured Stories, Auctions, Art Fairs,
Anecdotes, Art Quiz, Education, Mythology, 3D Images, Last Week, .
|Royalville Communications, Inc|
Tell a Friend
Dear User, please complete the form below in order to recommend the Artdaily newsletter to someone you know.
Please complete all fields marked *.