The First Art Newspaper on the Net   Established in 1996 United States Sunday, May 27, 2018

SFMOMA to Probe the Contemporary Culture of Wine in Exhibition
Zahia Hadid, Lopez de Heredia, Pepe Franco. Courtesy: Viña Tondonia.

SAN FRANCISCO, CA.- From November 20, 2010, to April 17, 2011, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) will present How Wine Became Modern: Design + Wine 1976 to Now. This exhibition explores transformations in the visual and material culture of wine over the past three decades, offering a fresh way of understanding the contemporary culture of wine and the role that design has played in its transformation. Organized by Henry Urbach, SFMOMA's Helen Hilton Raiser Curator of Architecture and Design, How Wine Became Modern marks the first exhibition to consider modern, global wine culture as an integrated yet expansive and richly textured set of cultural phenomena.

The story begins in 1976, the year of the now-famous Judgment of Paris. There, in a blind taste test, nine French wine experts pronounced a number of northern California wines superior to esteemed French vintages. However apt the decision, later criticized and repeatedly restaged, the event released shock waves across the globe as it gave the nascent California wine industry, as well as winemakers in many other parts of the world, new confidence, credibility, and visibility. This, in turn, had multiple effects including the expansion of wine markets, growing popular awareness of wine, the birth of wine criticism, vineyard tourism, and a host of other manifestations. From this moment forward, the culture of wine began to accommodate and valorize new priorities such as innovation, diversification, globalization, marketing, and accessibility.

"In many ways," Urbach claims, "wine has become 'modern' as it re-imagined its own representation and joined itself to other forms of culture," including architecture, graphic and industrial design, visual arts, performing arts, and film. And it is here, he adds, "at this particular intersection between nature and contemporary culture, that the social meanings of wine reveal key issues of our moment, including the status of place and authenticity in a world increasingly structured by dematerialized, virtual experience."

The exhibition, designed by the renowned architecture studio Diller Scofidio + Renfro (DS+R), combines original artifacts such as architectural models and photographs with works of art, some newly commissioned, as well as multimedia presentations and interpretive text. Viewers will encounter artworks, objects, and information within immersive environments that engage multiple senses including smell.

The exhibition is organized as a suite of galleries, as follows:

Upon entering the exhibition viewers will hear the sound of clinking wine glasses, triggered by a simple motion sensor. To one side is a large, newly commissioned wall work by Peter Wegner that charts more than 200 house paint colors named for wine (varietals such as Cabernet and Pinot Noir; events such as Crush and Harvest). As Wegner demonstrates the diffusion of wine-related language into everyday life, he also calls our attention to the gaps that structure language and its relation to natural phenomena such as color.

The Judgment of Paris
Few traces remain from the actual event, a rather modest affair despite its mythic status. Key artifacts will be presented—the two winning bottles as well as the original Time magazine article. Working with snapshots of the judges at work, DS+R will produce a life-size, illuminated tableau accompanied by sound to provide viewers with an immediate sense of the judge's gestures and comments. Along one edge of this gallery, a translucent wall offers visitors a tantalizing sense of the exhibition's final exhibit, a wall dedicated to the smell of wine.

Viewers pass behind the tableau to discover that the table represented in the image has become a display surface, one that recurs throughout the exhibition. In this gallery the concept of terroir is introduced, a theory of place that is fundamental to the culture of wine, the notion that distinctive, even unique qualities of soil and climate can be discerned in the character and taste of the liquid. With the expansion of viticulture across the globe, terroir has become something of a holy grail that winemakers compete for and claim as their own. The installation combines, from eighteen vineyards across the globe, the following elements: a small soil sample, real-time temperature and other microclimate data, maps of various scale, a clear bottle of wine, tasting notes, and a quotation from the winemaker about his or her understanding of terroir.

Worldwide Wine
A large map will be animated with data that demonstrates key transformations in wine production and culture over the past 30 years across the globe. This display, state-of-the-art and highly legible, will clarify what has happened to the world of wine in this period. Viewers will learn, for example, about the sharp decline in land dedicated to viticulture in Europe, the expansion of vineyards in new wine-growing regions such as Denmark and Brazil, the effects of political changes (such as the end of South African apartheid and the fall of General Pinochet), and other important developments.

In an adjacent gallery, viewers will encounter extended video debates between contemporary winemakers, wine consultants, and others with strong points of view about the nature and culture of winemaking today.

Terroir and Technique
A gallery will introduce visitors to contemporary imaging of vineyards, from the 'precision mapping' of heat and moisture across a plot of land, the result of a collaboration between Robert Mondavi and NASA in the 1970s, to 'harvest-eye scanning' that can assess the relative ripeness of grapes across a single vineyard. These maps, often stunningly beautiful, are equally surprising in their capacity to re-imagine the space of viticulture. A large, suspended vine and rootstock, their graft line presented at eye level, will address the hybridization of American and European rootstock over centuries as well as the more contemporary practice of grafting to address consumer demand for new varietals. An artwork by Nicolas Boulard produces a 1946 vintage of Domaine de la Romanée Conti, a vintage that never existed because of an outbreak of phylloxera that year.

Wine Labels and Brand Identity
Wine labels are charged with a unique challenge: to provide consumers with a sense of the liquid that remains, until the bottle is opened, entirely beyond reach. This exhibit gathers several hundred recent labels and organizes them within a particular taxonomy, the kind of display one might find in a wine store … but with a twist. Along the horizontal axis, categories of identity are elaborated (Cheeky, Fuzzy Animals, Instructive, Meteorological, etc.) while the vertical axis registers price point.

Glassware and Modern Wine
Along with other aspects of wine's visual and material culture, glassware — including wine glasses, decanters, and carafes — has undergone a dramatic transformation. Decanters and carafes have been reinvented to increase their oxygenating effects and to intensify their expressive character. Likewise, the wine glass has been subject to ongoing formal investigation during this period; in addition to varietal-specific glasses, we now have glasses that tilt to facilitate smelling and 'breathable' glasses that are porous to oxygen. A slow drip of red wine from the ceiling will gently disturb the glassware's liquid backdrop.

Wine, Architecture, and Tourism
Over the past twenty years, there has been an explosion of new architecture related to wine across the globe. Architects including Santiago Calatrava, Zaha Hadid, Steven Holl, Herzog + de Meuron, Renzo Piano, and Alvaro Siza are among the best-known architects to design new wineries as well as to explore the emergence of wine tourism with facilities such as hotels, visitor centers, spas, and tasting rooms.

The exhibition will present these projects at three distinct scales. First, a map of the globe will indicate where notable projects are found and demonstrate areas of concentration. An intermediate scale of photographs with accompanying text will identify approximately thirty of the most significant buildings. Finally, three buildings will be presented in depth: Clos Pegase Winery, Dominus Winery, and the Hotel Marqués de Riscal. Each of these projects will be exhibited with original architectural models, video interviews with architect and client, and other materials.

Dominus Winery by Herzog & de Meuron (1997) and the Hotel Marqués de Riscal by Gehry Partners (2007) mark two ends of a spectrum. On the one hand, Dominus asserts a strong and certain link between the building and the land; its gabion structure articulates a nearly invisible building that, among other qualities, establishes direct visual contact with the vines below. Riscal, by contrast, aims for maximum visibility as it sets, above a medieval village in the Rioja region of northern Spain, a miniature Guggenheim Bilbao, a tangle of polychromatic metal that contains, beneath its exuberant burst, a hotel and conference center for tourists as well as a spa specializing in grape- and wine-related treatments.

The third project, seen at the very end of this gallery, marks the starting point for more recent developments. In 1985, SFMOMA organized the first architectural competition for the design of a winery (indeed the first time a museum organized a competition for a building other than its own): Clos Pegase (1987), located near St. Helena in the Napa Valley. The winning architect-artist team, Michael Graves and Edward Schmidt, designed the winery at the height of American postmodernism as a faux-Pompeian compound. Three years later, the Centre Georges Pompidou organized two competitions for wineries, one speculative and the other to renovate Château Pichon-Longueville in Bordeaux. Together these events signaled wine's effort to become 'modern' by reaching towards contemporary architecture.

Along one wall a suite of newly commissioned, very large color photographs by Mitch Epstein will consider issues of tourism, labor, and class in the Napa Valley.

Screening Room
A screening room presents two video works related to wine. Dennis Adams' 'Spill' follows the artist's walk through Bordeaux, a full glass of red wine hovering perilously close to his immaculate white suit. Walking through the city, the artist recounts unpleasant historical moments such as the city's role in the slave trade and Vichy France; Adams slowly loses composure as the red wine spills and stains him. A second documentary film by Bêka gives access to a dining facility designed by Herzog & de Meuron for Château Jean-Pierre Moueix in Pomerol, Bordeaux, a place where workers dressed as American cowboys drink and celebrate during the period of intense labor that marks the harvest.

Connoisseurship and Popular Culture
The taste of wine has been mediated, in our times, by a panoply of sources, from sommeliers to wine critics and popular media. The role and influence of these mediators cannot be overstated as, for example, critics such as Robert Parker influence not only what some consumers buy but also what some producers make. A range of artifacts, including the influential Japanese manga 'Drops of God,' and interpretive displays will reveal the importance, and occasional bravado, of these sources. Words used to describe wine will be presented as a commissioned sound work that quietly fills the room.

Smell Wall
A translucent wall with suspended flacons, partially visible from the Judgment of Paris gallery, draws viewers into an intimate encounter with the smell of wine. Here, at the end of the exhibition, after learning about wine at a wide range of macro- and socio-cultural scales, the wall brings viewers into nearly direct contact with the liquid itself, providing an opportunity to enjoy its fragrance while learning about the education of the nose. Sommeliers and other experts will select flights of scent on a rotating basis.

Dinner Party
A dining table marks the exhibition's coda. Viewers are invited to sit and watch a new multi-channel video work by Marco Brambilla. The artist will provide each viewer with a surrogate dinner party companion, recapitulating the generic intimacy of dinner party chat while focusing on the role wine plays at such events. When the museum is closed the table can function as an event space for real-time rituals, including wine tastings and intimate dinners. Viewers exit the galleries along the Peter Wegner mural, seeing it for a second time and understanding more clearly the ambiguities it poses.

How Wine Became Modern: Design + Wine 1976 to Now is organized by the San Francisco Museum of Art.

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art | "How Wine Became Modern" | Henry Urbach |

Last Week News

May 8, 2010

Fondation Beyeler Marks Jean-Michel Basquiat's Fiftieth Birthday with Large Retrospective

Painting in Storage at Italian Ducal Palace May Be Raphael's

Celebrity Online Green Sale at Christie's Raises $1 Million

New York Public Library Faces Harshest Budget Cut In Its History

Artist Alison Elizabeth Taylor Returns for Third Exhibition at James Cohan Gallery

Deborah Wye to Retire as Chief Curator of Prints and Illustrated Books at MoMA

Andy Goldsworthy Departs from His Usual Practice in Exhibition at Galerie Lelong

Exchange Between Scientists and Artist Produces Exhibition at the Broad Institute

High Museum Selected to Present American Pavilion at 2010 Venice Biennale

Istanbul: Huma Kabakci Collection of Turkish Art Opens at the Osthaus Museum

New Orleans Museum of Art Names Susan M. Taylor New Museum Director

Emily Fisher Landau Gives Major Gift to the Whitney Museum

Huge Mural of Spain Returns to Renovated NY Museum

Research to Take Place at El Tajin Using LIDAR Technology

Keno Auction's Inaugural Sale Brings $5.8 Million, Well Above High Estimate

SculptureCenter Organizes Group Exhibition Curated by Fionn Meade

Frederik Meijer Gardens Welcomes Six-Millionth Visitor

Ron Mueck Exhibition Opens at Gallery of Modern Art

Made in California Sale Continues to Break World Record Auction Prices

May 7, 2010

Colombian Sculptor Doris Salcedo Awarded the Velázquez Visual Arts Prize 2010

New York Gallery Week to Present Over 50 Solo Gallery Exhibitions

Gagosian Exhibition Focuses on Lichtenstein's Still Life Paintings, Sculptures and Drawings 1972-1980s

Sotheby's Spring Sale of American Paintings, Drawings and Sculpture to be Held May 19

MIT Museum Receives 70 Years of Polaroid History in Donation from PLR IP Holdings

Exhibition of New Photographs by Julian Faulhaber at Hasted Hunt Kraeutler

First American Exhibition of Drawings by Roni Horn at Hauser & Wirth NY

Art Gallery of Ontario Announces Major Julian Schnabel Exhibition

"A Venomous Bloom" by Kent Henricksen at Paul Kasmin Gallery

Nelson-Atkins Museum in Kansas City to Open New Egyptian Galleries

The New School Unveils Design for University Center Designed by Roger Duffy

Vintage, Modern and Antique Home Furnishings at Christie's South Kensington in June

Florida Museum Receives Monumental Louise Nevelson Installation

No Bids for Eccentric Michael Jackson Portrait

Winners of British Columbia's Largest Visual Arts Awards Announced

The Wright Wins Design Award and Nomination

Major Gifts of Art and Donations of $750,000 Strengthen Tate Collection from the Americas

David Rubenstein Gives $5M to Library of Congress

Getty Awards $630,000 for Conservation of Ghent Altarpiece and Vasari's Last Supper

May 6, 2010

Sotheby's May 2010 Evening Sale of Impressionist and Modern Art Brings $195 Million

After Forty Years, Lisson Gallery Revisits John Latham's First Solo Exhibition

Christie's Impressionist and Modern Art Sales Series Totals $360 Million

Karola Kraus is the New Director of the Museum Moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig

MoMA to Host Symposium "Art Institutions and Feminist Politics Now"

Edward Kienholz's Renowned Installation Roxys, 1960-61 at David Zwirner

America's Mayor: John V. Lindsay and the Reinvention of New York

Paintings and Works on Paper by Reeve Schley at James Graham & Sons Gallery

AIA Selects 18 Recipients for the 2010 Housing Awards

British Museum Opens Exhibition of The Printed Image in China

Work by Celebrated Designer Wendell Castle at Barry Friedman Ltd.

The Glasgow School of Art Announces New Chairman of the Board of Governors

Exhibition and Symposium Celebrate Marcel Duchamp's Last Great Masterpiece

Archaeological Finding Confirms Ixcateopan Produced Cotton

Brazilian Photographer Bruno Cals to Exhibit at New Gallery

Pop-Up Art Exhibition Presented by Bicker Gallery in Sydney

Imperial War Museum London Appoints Master Planners

Indonesia to Auction Ancient Shipwreck Treasure

Thieves Steal 11 Bronze Statues in Iran's Capital

May 5, 2010

Picasso Sells at Christie's for $106.5 Million, a Record for a Work of Art Sold at Auction

Four Nominees Announced to Compete for Britain's Turner Prize

Monet Masterpiece Donated to the National Gallery of Canada

Masterwork by Yves Klein to Be Sold at Sotheby's in London

Martin Bethenod Named Director of Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana

Christie's to Offer the Forbes Collection of Winston Churchill Letters and Books

French Parliament Approves Return of Sixteen Maori Heads

Jennifer Flay Appointed General Director of FIAC Art Fair

Van Gogh Masterpiece Travels to the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Winfrey, Wintour Host Metropolitan Costume Gala in New York

Archaeologists in Egypt Find Ptolemaic-Era King Statue

Museum-Quality Photographs Featured at Swann Galleries' Auction

Christoph Schlingensief to Design German Pavilion Artist for Venice Biennial

Columbus Museum of Art Announces Pivotal Gift by Soter Family

Six New Video Works by Shoja Azari at Leila Taghinia-Milani Heller Gallery

Baloise Art Prize Winner Geert Goiris in the Hamburger Kunsthalle

Stuart Pearson Wright's 'I Remember You' at Riflemaker

Exhibition of Works on Paper by Norbert Tadeusz Opens at Pinakothek der Moderne

National Postal Museum Celebrates the 150th Anniversary of the Pony Express with an Online Featured Collection

Academy Art Museum Announces Appointment of Erik H. Neil as Director

Third Annual American Masters at Salmagundi Club

May 4, 2010

Mexican President Felipe Calderón Visits Frida Kahlo Exhibition at Martin Gropius Bau

Allen Ginsberg's Photographs Featured in First Scholarly Exhibition

Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts Gets $22.5M Gift from DeVos Family

Francis Newton Souza Revealed & Celebrated at Christie's in June

Lourdes Fernández, Resigns as Head of IFEMA"s ARCOmadrid

Matthew Bown Gallery Turns Off Its Lights for New Exhibition

Exhibition at the Bible Lands Museum Looks at Jewish Magic through the Ages

Kazuyo Sejima Presented the 12th Biennale of Architecture

17th Biennale of Sydney Announces Major Artist Projects

Everson Announces Groundbreaking Gift from Local Foundation

Skate's LLC Introduces Three New Art Collector Resources

Historic Oriental Carpet Sells for $9.59 Million; Twice Previous High Price

Ninth Annual Affordable Art Fair New York City Encourages Art in Our Everyday

"American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity" Opens at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Art Exhibition Celebrates New Orleans Cultural History

Hong Kong-Based Artist Simon Birch Challenges Established Paradigms in Art

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum Announces Public Phase of Campaign for the Gardner

Historic Golden State Commemorative Diamond Jubilee Coin on the Auction Block

Asian Auction House to Offer Tips on Art Investing

Crow Collection of Asian Art Presents Bamboo Works from the Clark Center and the Art of Motoko Maio

Carlos Basualdo and Pippo Ciorra Announced as New Curators at Maxxi

May 3, 2010

Dutch Queen Beatrix Inaugurates Newly Renovated and Enlarged Villa Vauban in Luxembourg

Flush Collectors Ready to Spend Again at Auctions of Rare Art

Kresge Goes for the "Bold" with New Summer Exhibition

MoMA Announces Exhibition of New Architectures of Social Engagement

Manhattan Mogul Elie Hirschfeld Acquires Important Painting by Francoise Gilot

Boston's MFA Uses Dassault's 3D Tech to Study Pyramids

South African Photographer David Goldblatt Exhibits at the Jewish Museum

Es Baluard Museum Opens Exhibition of Photographs by Lou Reed

Nolan Artwork an Early Birthday Present for the National Gallery of Victoria

Canadian and U.S. Photographers Compete for 2010 Grange Prize

Exhibition of New Works by Shirazeh Houshiary at Lehmann Maupin

Acclaimed Artist and Filmmaker Gerry Fox Exhibits at Eleven Fine Art

Metal Sculptor is Focus of New Memorial Art Gallery Exhibition

Frieze Magazine Announces Call for Entries for Writer's Prize

Oc-Eo Art to Manage Sale of Rare Indian Contemporary Masterpiece

Contemporary Video Installation Features Public Internet Images of the ROM

Cash-Strapped Museums Must Work Together to Keep Building and Refreshing their Collections

After Six Weeks of a Formidable Run of Exhibits, the FotoFest 2010 Biennial in Numbers

Tamar Getter and the Grotesque Circle of Chalk at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art

Art Brussels 2010 Breaks All Records!

Most Popular Last Seven Days

1.- New Rembrandt found after being bought at London auction

2.- Exhibition at Fotohof focuses on groups in society who are at risk of marginalisation

3.- John Brennan collection of Rock n Roll memorabilia offered at RR Auction

4.- A Bob Dylan guitar fetches $495,000 at auction

5.- Exhibition in San Francisco focuses on the latter half of René Magritte's career

6.- 'Mad' king Ludwig II of Bavaria lost gift to composer Richard Wagner gets rare show

7.- New Royal Academy of Arts opens in celebration of its 250th anniversary

8.- Researchers uncover Anne Frank's 'dirty jokes'in her diary

9.- New York art sales near $3 billion in two weeks as uber-rich hunt trophies

10.- Berlin's Ethnological Museum returns grave-plundered artefacts to Alaska

Related Stories

SFMOMA announces 2012 SECA Art Award winners

First-ever retrospective of Richard Serra's drawings on view at San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art presents Lunch Break by Sharon Lockhart

SFMOMA Announces Exhibition on the Art and Influence of Gertrude Stein and Her Family

SFMOMA Appoints Robert W. Lasher as New Deputy Museum Director, External Relations

SFMOMA to Present Exposed: Voyeurism, Surveillance and The Camera Since 1870

SFMOMA to Honor William T. Wiley with 11th Annual Bay Area Treasure Award

SFMOMA Announces New Body of Work by R.H. Quaytman

SFMOMA to Present Exposed: Voyeurism, Surveillance and The Camera Since 1870

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Showcases Works by Paul Klee

Museums, Exhibits, Artists, Milestones, Digital Art, Architecture, Photography,
Photographers, Special Photos, Special Reports, Featured Stories, Auctions, Art Fairs,
Anecdotes, Art Quiz, Education, Mythology, 3D Images, Last Week, .


Ignacio Villarreal
Editor & Publisher:Jose Villarreal - Consultant: Ignacio Villarreal Jr.
Art Director: Juan José Sepúlveda Ramírez

Royalville Communications, Inc
Founder's Site. The most varied versions
of this beautiful prayer.
to a Mexican poet.

The First Art Newspaper on the Net. The Best Versions Of Ave Maria Song Junco de la Vega Site Ignacio Villarreal Site
Tell a Friend
Dear User, please complete the form below in order to recommend the Artdaily newsletter to someone you know.
Please complete all fields marked *.
Sending Mail
Sending Successful